problems or paranoid after stage 2
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ohio
problems or paranoid after stage 2
I have a 2011 ultra with 5000 miles on it. I just did a ton of work on it and now I'm a little paranoid.
I went from stock to: Rinehart slip ons on the gutted head pipe, thunder max tbw auto tune, SE stage 1 air intake (not the cone one), SE 255 cams, SE adjustable pushrods. I changed the three O rings during the cam swap.
At this same time I did the full 5000 mile service.
I have ridden about 300 miles and it seems to be doing well except for two things. I keep getting a very random but overwhelming smell of burnt oil. It is a strong smell then gone within 60-90 seconds. I have checked inside the new air filter and there is no oil in it from the breather.
My oil pressure also seems to be a bit low at times. Hot idle is between 5 to 8 but 2000 rpm is dropping down to 20.
Oil appears to be in the appropriate range when checked.
I went from stock to: Rinehart slip ons on the gutted head pipe, thunder max tbw auto tune, SE stage 1 air intake (not the cone one), SE 255 cams, SE adjustable pushrods. I changed the three O rings during the cam swap.
At this same time I did the full 5000 mile service.
I have ridden about 300 miles and it seems to be doing well except for two things. I keep getting a very random but overwhelming smell of burnt oil. It is a strong smell then gone within 60-90 seconds. I have checked inside the new air filter and there is no oil in it from the breather.
My oil pressure also seems to be a bit low at times. Hot idle is between 5 to 8 but 2000 rpm is dropping down to 20.
Oil appears to be in the appropriate range when checked.
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Ohio
Can you please elaborate on this for me. I'm not sure what hex plug your meaning or how much oil there should be. Thanks
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Detroit, the asshole of America
There is a hex plug at the bottom of the cam chest. It's not the same one you use for an oil change, it's further forward than those. If you pull it and drain the oil only a small quantity should come out. When I did my cams I'd say maybe a cupful came out. If it's sumping there will be like a quart of oil in there.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,145
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From: Colorado Springs
There is a hex plug at the bottom of the cam chest. It's not the same one you use for an oil change, it's further forward than those. If you pull it and drain the oil only a small quantity should come out. When I did my cams I'd say maybe a cupful came out. If it's sumping there will be like a quart of oil in there.
Great tip guys, I wasn't aware of that. Just did my cams also. No weird smells though.
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From: Ohio
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: greenwood, mo
You might check the orings where your air cleaner bolts to heads if you dont put a little oil on them before you tighten they will tear
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,145
Likes: 98
From: Colorado Springs
Having said that, if it were sumping, I'd think you'd feel a power loss with the engine churning that oil. I doubt if it is sumping and it's nice to know you can check that w/o removing the floorboards, exhaust, and cracking the chest open again.
I did my cams two or three weeks ago. I have been extra aware of every little sound too. I understand your paranoia. Just take your time and think this through.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
To the OP: I'm not sure you have symptoms of sumping, as in that case you would likely see low oil level and a performance decrease when hot, neither of which you mentioned. Not sure about the burnt-oil smell, but I would look around for any leak, especially those around the exhaust system. I would expect higher oil pressure than 20 at 2000 rpm, even when hot. I rarely see <32 (straight-up on the gauge) at any time except at idle, and no change after the cam swap. I also have a 96/255 combo.