Yes, right, I have ABS.

TedMan

 

I replaced my 2 bikes with SpeedBleeders earlier this winter. An 85 FXRT and an 08 Ultra w/sidecar non ABS. I read the installation data and could not believe how simple it sounded. It is true, a caveman can do this by themselves just take your time. Great product..

 

What part number is everyone using?

Is the part number you ordered (SB8125L) the stainless steel version? I see there is a similar part number also listed under the Stainless section but has a part number SB8125SS.

Im interested in ordering a set for my 2012 Limited FLHTK but was thinking that the stainless version would be best?

 

8125L is the right one. Any one else have any input on lack of pressure on my pedal? Thx,

TedMan

 

I can see the usefulness to having them and I'm not baggin on them whatsoever, but I used the old method of pump and wrench just the other day to flush the fluid out of my rear brakes and it took maybe 30 minutes from start to finish. When I put the apes on it didn't take that much more than that to do the fronts when I changed the lines.

 

For my 2011 SG with non-ABS brakes, do I need three (3) of the SB8125L SpeedBleeders?

 

Why don't you give Speed Bleeder a call & ask them they are the greatest thing since sliced bread.

 

Just ordered a set of these myself - thank for the write-up!

 

I agree - I can't see spending $50 when I can reach the bleeder and the brake lever/pedal at the same time - it's not anywhere as hard as rubbing my belly and patting my head. I just have to say to myself "squeeze, loosen, tighten, release" over and over.

What would really be useful is a replacement cap that has a hose barb so you could attach a mite-e-vac and suck new fluid up from the caliper right out of the bottle.

 

Yes, of course. But that does not matter. ABS brakes bleed exactly the same as non-ABS. The process of installing speed bleeders, compared to changing out brake lines, is really an elementary process that anyone can accomplish…even me

When entire lines are changed, you introduce tons of air into the system. This air can become trapped in the ABS module, then it is necessary to cycle the abs module to encourage the air bubbles to move out of the chambers. This cycling is what the harley shop will do for you if this was to occur during a brake line swap. None of this has anything to do with a speedbleeder install.

Once you install the speedbleeder nipples, then you simply start pumping brake fluid through the system. This puts new fluid all through the system and if it's been a while since you have flushed, you may be able to tell a positive difference with the new dry fluid.

A one man operation, no chance of screwing-up and sucking air back into the system, and no distractions while handling DOT4 fluid that can really mess up the finish if spilled. Once installed, you don't have to fret over fluid changes ever again…and you will never have to pay anyone to do it for you. You can always have fresh, non-hydrated brake fluid, know there is no air in the lines, and prevent some other person from ruining your finish when HE spills brake fluid on your bike and then says nothing about what he did.

They are worth every single penny from my viewpoint.

Here's a pic of what a stainless SP looks like. It has the black rubber cap installed (this is an extreme blow-up of another photo, so I appologize for the lack of sharpness):