What's Wrong Here?
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 359
Likes: 1
What's Wrong Here?
Changed out my bars and had to change clutch cable, too. New one is just the right length.
However the adjuster is not in the same position as it was on the stock cable.
After turning it out as far as it can possibly go without seperating the 2 sections, I still have way too much play/slack in the lever.
I followed the same proceedure as always when adjusting the clutch as related to the part under the derby cover.
now the clutch barely disengages, its realy hard getting it in 1rst-neutral, and the hotter the bike gets it wants to keep grabbing and rolling while i am at a complete stop.
any suggestion on what i've done wrong or am missing here?
Some feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
However the adjuster is not in the same position as it was on the stock cable.
After turning it out as far as it can possibly go without seperating the 2 sections, I still have way too much play/slack in the lever.
I followed the same proceedure as always when adjusting the clutch as related to the part under the derby cover.
now the clutch barely disengages, its realy hard getting it in 1rst-neutral, and the hotter the bike gets it wants to keep grabbing and rolling while i am at a complete stop.
any suggestion on what i've done wrong or am missing here?
Some feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 715
Likes: 2
From: St. Charles, Mo.
Bike? What Brand Clutch cable did you use? I just did mine and had no issues. clutch adjustment was good before so never even opened the derby. Get the ramp and ***** and everything put back right?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,010
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From: On the Front Range, CO
Need to loosen the part under the derby cover pretty far, while the adjuster in the cable is completely closed, as in no slack taken up.
Then, you can get the slack out of the internal clutch cable, and adjust the part under the derby cover to where it was....
You need to do this on a cold bike, not hot. If you adjust the clutch too deep, it won't grab, so back it out some. May take a couple tries to get it just right...
Then, you can get the slack out of the internal clutch cable, and adjust the part under the derby cover to where it was....
You need to do this on a cold bike, not hot. If you adjust the clutch too deep, it won't grab, so back it out some. May take a couple tries to get it just right...
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 359
Likes: 1
The bike is a 2011 Limited. The bars are Wild ones 575's...which are really nice bars and comfortable for me.
As far as i can tell, eveything was put back together the same way it came apart under the cover . Ball& ramp looked good...less than 5K miles on it..
I guess I will try starting out again with everything backed off and loosened up and lessen up on the "seating " with the adjuster part under the derby cover....or is it the tighter i make the adjustment under the derby cover, the closer the lever will be to the handlegrip when the clutch starts to grab?
I thought the adjustment part of the cable itself was going to line up along the frame/downtube the same way the stock cable did, but it doesnt. The adjuster ended up way across the other side of the frame at a weird angle...but i dont have much extra cable left at the lever end at all.
I dont have a lot of experience with this and it can be a bit confusing
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 384
Likes: 2
From: Overseas
If the adjuster is not in the front of the frame where it used to be then you prolly got the wrong cable. I've used HD, Barnett, and Magnum and the adjuster is always at the front of the frame no matter how much over the length is.
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 715
Likes: 2
From: St. Charles, Mo.
I agree. I used a magnum +4 on my WO's 575's and it was the perfect length and the adjuster ened up right where the old one was. BTW the further you back off the allen in the clutch adjustment the earlier your clutch will grab.
Any pics of this cable setup?
Any pics of this cable setup?
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 715
Likes: 2
From: St. Charles, Mo.
I think you are supposed to have the PN38649-08 and not the "A" on the end PN38649-08A.
The -08 is for 08 and up it seems and the "A" is 96 to 06.
Maybe this is the difference.
The -08 is for 08 and up it seems and the "A" is 96 to 06.
Maybe this is the difference.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 359
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You are mostly likely correct on the "a" part of the number. When I ordered the part I dont remember it being listed with, or as the "A" version. Possibly the dealer got me the wrong one. I just checked the part number on the wrappings and it does show an "A"
I would post a pic but I have verry limited computer savvy...Tomorrow I will maybe get one of my kids to help me with getting a picture on here.
Thanks for the input guys. I will follow up with your suggestions...tighter on the allen setup means the clutch "grab" will start farther out on the lever release.
I should have just spent the extra bucks and got a barnett or a magnum cable to begin with.
I would post a pic but I have verry limited computer savvy...Tomorrow I will maybe get one of my kids to help me with getting a picture on here.
Thanks for the input guys. I will follow up with your suggestions...tighter on the allen setup means the clutch "grab" will start farther out on the lever release.
I should have just spent the extra bucks and got a barnett or a magnum cable to begin with.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 715
Likes: 2
From: St. Charles, Mo.
...tighter on the allen setup means the clutch "grab" will start farther out on the lever release.
Correct. Tighter the allen the further out your friction zone will be... The Further out the allen the closer your friction zone will engage.
Correct. Tighter the allen the further out your friction zone will be... The Further out the allen the closer your friction zone will engage.
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