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Full synth added on My first oil change on the EGlide
Ok so my 97 Electra purchased in February came as a bit of a mystery. After fixing this and changing that, I decided to change tho oil. I toiled over the countless blogs, articles, ehow, you tube....opinions everywhere , even listened to the dealers speeeeeeeeeeal. I'll skip the boring **** , as we all know the process is pretty easy minus the general distraction here and there but it went well.
I wanted to share what I went with, and some results.
I chose a 15 micron filter.
3qts of -Amsoil 20 w 50
1 qt of Lucas 20 w 50 full synth oil stabilizer real thick but looked and smelled conventional, I think it is a synth stabilizer not synthetic in and of itself tho.
This Lucas stuff adds a protective barrierr to all the vital moving parts it supposedly also enhances the thermal inhibitors, supposedly quieting the sewing machine effect comming up from the underside of the fairing....plus it's known to help amsoil keep the temps operating 10-20 degrees cooler under demanding driving conditions
Time will tell when the summer heat arrives, I have noticed its quiet now. No more sewing machine so that's good.
I've written down a list of tithings I'll review for my update. I know one guy who did this and he's boasting badd ?
So we shall see.
Til then.
Last edited by Joboo1966; Mar 28, 2012 at 06:47 PM.
My 99 FXSTC never seeped or weeped synthetic again after the paper base gaskets were changed out and cometic metal based ones were installed.
Yeah I had a 98 DWG and was using synthetic when it was frowned upon and that's what was needed to stop seepage.....I believe it was Royal Purple I was using.
Here was my 99 softail custom(last year of the evo)w/a fatboy front fender on it and a 16 inch Thunderstar wheel added., cause I didn't much care for the skinny tire look of the 21. S & S Super E Carb, 2-1, etc. etc. Lotta fun on that bike.
Where did seepage come from and how long after the change? If it seeps is the solution to simply change back? I'm hoping the thick 20 w60 conventional Lucas additive curbs the seep you guys are talking about. Where would I expect to se seepage?
as I said earlier, the castings and machining are better now than then.
some common gaskets like the primary gasket for a twin cam won't come close to sealing the primary on an evo ( where you need the thick paper style from the Indy shop).
often there will be a "sludge seal" on the inside of a gasket- the synth will clean that away perhaps allowing seeps.
as mentioned above the base gaskets/ esp the rear cylinder.
as far as viscosity when you mix grades of oil ( and I have NO idea if the products you are using are compatible with each other- that's for the manufacturers) the end viscosity will be related to the oils mixed.
for example 1 qt 10W and 1 qt 5W results in 2 qt of 7.5W
as I said earlier, the castings and machining are better now than then.
some common gaskets like the primary gasket for a twin cam won't come close to sealing the primary on an evo ( where you need the thick paper style from the Indy shop).
often there will be a "sludge seal" on the inside of a gasket- the synth will clean that away perhaps allowing seeps.
as mentioned above the base gaskets/ esp the rear cylinder.
as far as viscosity when you mix grades of oil ( and I have NO idea if the products you are using are compatible with each other- that's for the manufacturers) the end viscosity will be related to the oils mixed.
for example 1 qt 10W and 1 qt 5W results in 2 qt of 7.5W
let us know how you make out
mike
I was just wondering where the seepage occurred. Been three days rode it 60 miles today and nothing yet. Yes Lucas oil stabilizer is compatible with all oils synths and standard motor oils. So if seepage occurs all I should have to do is switch back to conventional right? Jeesh now I'm nervous. I just knew switching to synth was a bad idea.
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