I have a 2001 Road Glide with the Zippers Delphi FI conversion on it.
I got caught behind a wreck and traffic delays were in effect for about 5 miles. All this time stopping and starting in 70 degree weather for about an hour or so.
. It was all going fine until I noticed my leg was getting pretty warm. Engine started to crap out and ultimately died on me. I let it set for a bit it started up it ran crappy and wouldn't idle for a few miles and then viola ran like a champ the 60 miles home.
Is this how a RG of this year acts when it overheats? I know newer bikes have a management system that gradually shuts down systems on the bike. So what prevents these things from frying themselves up?
Thanks

 

Its the rider's decision depending on resistance to pain, a particular smell in the air as the cylinders get very hot, valves produce a sound with a higher pitch (tinny), the oil pressure light may come on and finally the engine will stall.

 

Yes, watch for oil pressure dropping below the "normal" readings- that means the heat is making the oil thin out.

IF you idle is low- below 1000 rpms, increasing the idle speed will increase the oil pressure and volume provided to the motor.

the oil will carry heat from the hottest part of the motor ( heads and pistons) and defuse the heat.

It is counter-intuitive the increase the speed of a hot motor, but it works.

Over heating can be exacerbated by an overly lean mixture.

a real sign of over heating is the motor pinging like mad ( sounds like pebbles rattling in a coffee can)

Mike

 

Yes, watch for oil pressure dropping below the "normal" readings- that means the heat is making the oil thin out.

IF you idle is low- below 1000 rpms, increasing the idle speed will increase the oil pressure and volume provided to the motor.

the oil will carry heat from the hottest part of the motor ( heads and pistons) and defuse the heat.

It is counter-intuitive the increase the speed of a hot motor, but it works.

Over heating can be exacerbated by an overly lean mixture.

a real sign of over heating is the motor pinging like mad ( sounds like pebbles rattling in a coffee can)

Mike

 

This is when you know!

 

Seems like the CEL or some other dummy light would come on and stay on as long as the EITMS is active, or at least up to trigger temp (since there is a manual activation option).

 

Well that was kind of my point, I don't believe my year RG has the EITMS. So what makes a 2001 ultimately stall out? Is there a low oil pressure protection system? The air temp gauge was pegged, but I wouldn't think that would be a clear indication of the engine's status...would it? Thanks for the replies.

 

When your eggs begin to fry

 

my 1999 (carburated) could sit in construction traffic for hours in 90+ heat and not have a problem.. and i know this by experience. outside of Chicago on way to Sturgis for 2 hours and the two bikes with me both puked gas out of their carbs and died (neither were HD brand bikes) and I sat there idling waiting for them to get fired again. as far as oil pressure below normal - my normal oil pressure at idle on a scorching hot day was 0 - can't get lower than that. Rode to 48 states and never never never an issue.

 

My 06 doesn't have the "EITMS" either, but it does still have overheat control functions, don't remember if it was in the service or owners manual, but there will be a description some where, explaining the enrichment and skip fire modes. I got my EITMS info from the TTS Mastertune manual. There are a couple parameters that trigger EITMS and a couple stages, but roughly when you hit 300F triggers it. That is measured at the front cylinder head. You could make your own simple dummy light with a thermal "snap" switch (rated at your temperature choice), and a miniature LED, for less than $20. If your interested in something like this I can look up the component links and post it for you later this evening.