A properly mounted on the bag mounts on a 2009~2013 bagger with antenna on a CVO with the huge LED fairing mount tail lights using all stock hardware. For the non-CVO I mount the on top of the bar.

 

Very interesting and neat modification. I'd have never thought of doing that. Well done.

Same stroke, same comfortable just more grinding the pavement but cool for folks with short human legs too. This mod should go down like a bomb in Asia.

One question at a bit of tangent ... would similarly cutting 41mm slider, without cutting the fork leg, give another - safe - 1" of travel?

I'm not short on the leg and live where there are plenty of corners. I don't go for the lowered look.

Yes, the idea of putting later forks and sliders on an old Big Twin is the next logical thing to do once 2014 'takeoffs' start turning up on Ebay ... but it would be this year for me.

 

... would similarly cutting 41mm slider, without cutting the fork leg, give another - safe - 1" of travel?

<<< Think about that, all you would have is just a bigger gap between the slider and triple tree. No difference in stroke. You must make the whole slider and fork tube exactly shorter. This means duplication the bushing/oil seal & spring clip as well as the threads in the other end after shorting the fork tube. Have at it. A bit hard to do.

 

Do you have a picture of the install ?
How does it fit under the baggers?

 

Can you please post a few close-up photos of the ressys mounted under a tour-pak? If the photos are of a 2009+ frame, that's even better.

 

Understood and point taken ... but in principle it would work in a 41mm, or does it require the extra circumference and better strength/tolerances of the 49? It would make more sense to invest taking a 41 upto a 49.

Are you selling triple trees to adopt an old bike to the new spec?

Not something I would jump at doing but the parts are affordably cheap to play around with. Ending up on your nose with a front end failure not so ...

I know they make the Tri-Glide fork sliders longer. What you're saying you've discovered is that there is enough material in the forks to extend their performance.

Nice bracketry. I hope Ohlins rewarded you for all your R&D and marketing insights.

 

Howard - First I want to say thank you for your continued support and for all of the time that you have put into writing these post. This is a prime example of the support that you will receive from Howard. I seriously doubt that you will ever find another vendor, manufacture, retailer etc. that gives this type of product support after the sale. And when Howard says to call him he means it! He has always answered the phone every single time and always has made time for me no matter how stupid the question may seem. Thank you Howard !!!!

Howard could you please provide a few pictures of the clamping system that you have for a FHLTK 2011 as you can see on my bike with my install it does not look so good. I tried the recommended electrical tape idea as provided in the instructions to prevent scratching of the ressy on the underside of the clamp and also wrapped it around the other clamp to see if it would be better. To me it just looks like a shady install job. As you can see this is as close together as I can get the clamps because of the black bracket that is welded to the saddle bag bar.



Here is my first attempt to mount the ressy with the rubber blocks and using tie straps. This is the incorrect way as you mentioned, the tie straps will loosen up. My point with this picture is to show everyone what happens when you do not use tape on the stainless steel worm clamps (Not Shown). I SCRATCHED IT !! MY BAD!! Look on the right side closely you can see it.




The picture below shows what it looks like from behind the bike. Left side I used the worm clamp that was provided and with electrical tape on the back side of the clamp. The right side I used black tie straps to see how it would work. I later converted it back to the clamp method.




It was mounted on the saddle bag bar which above you stated that it was never meant to be mounted here but in another quote I believe you stated that this is the only place that that these can be mounted for my make and model FHLTK 2011 non cvo with the crash bar brackets welded on to the bars.




Howard- Do you have a close up picture of how this is done? I believe another member here was asking for the same.

The pictures below show what does not work on my 2011 FHLTK Non CVO. Please note that my saddle bag bars have brackets welded on to them by HD for use with the horizontal type crash bars. I believe Howard's pictures showed a CVO model which have the saddle bag bars without the brackets welded to them.



This picture shows the left side of the bike when attempting to use the provided L-Brackets, they will not leave enough clearance for the ressy to fit as it will hit the fender.



This picture shows what the right side of the bike looks like when attempting to use the L-Brackets. This fits but runs very close to the brake rotor. Notice that you must use black tape to protect the ressy from getting scratched as shown in my first pic. Again Howard mentions that this is not the correct way. I did this on my own to educate myself as this is what I enjoy doing.



This picture is the right side of the bike using the L-bracket picture taken from the rear.


For now I will be going back to mounting the ressy on the saddlebag bar with the rubber blocks and worm clamps using tape on the inside of the clamps. I will probably order HD's fender fillers to hide the ressy as I do not like the looks of how they mount as I showed above. Howard I would like to see a picture of your clamps that you mentioned and a close up pic of how they mount under the tour pack. Thank you for posting all of your pics showing the different mounting positions however none of those mounts represented the type of saddlebag bars that I have. I believe your pics were on a CVO and other models. I know that I am being an advocate here but hopefully you take me in a positive way. The product works beyond what I expected and your customer service after the sale has been superior. I am looking forward to installing the 49mm triple tree system within the next month. I hope my pictures show what not to do.

 

Jeez ... nice close up pictures of one of my pet hates.

Authentic H-D Weld Splatter™ on those saddle bag brackets ... each one a nub of corrosion waiting to happen.

If your H-D's a keeper you've got to factor in taking it down to bare metal to remove and re-coat the frame. You'd think the factory could afford to wire brush down and de-nib the frames ... it looks like they are getting worse, not better. While you are at it, you could weld some proper brackets on.


Sorry ... back to the suspension discussion ... what's the limit on the length of the braided steel line?

How much better are these shocks from the standard ones?

 

As I mentioned in my first post that in my opinion I believe that Ohlins could have spent some more time in the R&D phase in devolving a better mount for the 2009 an up FHLTK that have the saddle bag bars that contain the bracket that is welded on for using the horizontal crash bar option.

I will wait to hear back from Howard to see if he has all ready designed a bracket system that works better then the hose clamp rubber block system that I am using and showing in the pictures below.

If he does not have one then I will reach out to my local fab shop Hammer N Hand Saint Johns Mi and have them make me one. Looking at this closely I can see that it could easily be done with a properly designed L-Bracket and using the existing bracket on my saddle bag bars. It appears that each side left and right would need to be designed differently to accommodate the spacing with the fender and a few other components that will need to be considered. The idea would be to utilize the saddles for the worm clamps with a custom L Bracket.

The system that ships with the shocks does not allow you to use the worm clamp saddles as you can see they have to be wrapped around the saddle bag bars which in my opinion is a bandaid and a quick fix to get these mounted. The other problem is that the stainless steel clamps will scratch the gold anodizing on the ressys very easily. The instructions say to use electrical tape on the inside of the clamps which in my opinion is another bandaid. I feel that they should provide a plastic or rubber coated worm clamp.

I have posted pictures below of how I understood the correct installation to be for my model of bike. If I incorrectly installed these please let me know. The one idea that I came up with on my own to prevent further scratching of my ressys was to purchase a $ 9.00 can of Rust Oleum rubberized paint as I really did not like the tape idea. I coated the worm clamps black and I feel that it worked rather well and prevented further scratching of my ressys. Here are my pictures of my finial install until I find out if Howard has a better more professional looking system or until I can have one fabled for me. Please note that there is a little play in the hoses leading to the ressy however I feel that there could be more as it is taunt. This is the only position that the ressys would mount with the bracket that is welded to the stock saddle bag bars. The ressys are sucure and not going anywhere at least for the moment. Just in my opinion I really do not like the mounting set up.

I hope that my experience and pictures will help you with any options that you have. I do believe that the # 6 shocks from Howard are superior to any other shock built for are Harley's. Without Howard's knowledge we would not even have these. I am more than satisfied with the product and customer support. I also did not want to mount my ressys under the tour pack as I wish to be able to remove it from time to time.

I'm just playing advocate here I really do like the shocks and the current mounting system does work just fine.

Rust Oleum rubberized paint to prevent scratching of the ressys


Left side



Right Side


View from behind

 

I saw that too and yes I'm keeping it so I will get that taken care of when I have the custom brackets made. Good winter project this year.

Good question, looks like I need another inch.
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Fully adjustable, Spring Preload, rebound and compression. the bumps in th e road seem to disappear. Bike does not dive as bad when applying the front brake. Handles much better and I have not bottomed out. Wife is happy !