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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 11:42 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Then Came Bronson
Uh…what are you talking about…no rebound damping? I beg to differ. I think you meant to say, no adjustable rebound damping…big difference.

The Progressive 440 has an inertia valve that senses wheel or chassis motion, and self adjusts the rebound damping. If there was no rebound damping on the 440, every time the rear wheel unloads, the shock would fully extend with a nice loud clunk, and the rider would definitely break contact with the seat…if not be launched airborne.
I was told by a person of great knowledge of shocks, but shall remain nameless, that these had no rebound control, although there surely must be some. Perhaps the translation should have been "they feel like they have no rebound control" or "rebound control is not very effective." The feel was that there was very little damping at best, giving you the sensation of being tossed into the air, and I did recall topping-out on occasion. I believe what you say that there is some rebound-damping mechanism, however.

With the 12˝" length I did get the clunk often enough when they bottomed-out during compression, and adjusting pre-load was difficult. A minor change one way would be a harsh ride while in the other too much bottoming, and I always had to make a change when in touring trim. The Ohlins are adjusted perfectly for any contingency I subject them to, and have yet to change the original adjustment made by Howard.

To be fair to the Progressives, they were an improvement over the stock 12" SG shock, but any modicum of damping over a hardtail would ride better. Also, had I gone with 440's with more stroke (e.g. 13") I'm sure the result would've been better, which is why I always recommend that people in the market buy the tallest shock they can live with.

I'm not a fan of this Progressive inertia valve system, and I much prefer my Ohlins 3-3s, that have a sweep valve to adjust compression/rebound damping. The Ohlins is a vastly superior shock, all the way around.
No doubt about that.
 

Last edited by iclick; Apr 8, 2012 at 11:48 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by flhrbill
Thanks for all your help. Looks like I'll be calling Howard again but this time I will be ordering the 2-3s.
Be sure to ask for the HDForums discount. It was very generous when I bought mine three years ago.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by iclick
I was told by a person of great knowledge of shocks, but shall remain nameless, that these had no rebound control, although there surely must be some. Perhaps the translation should have been "they feel like they have no rebound control" or "rebound control is not very effective." The feel was that there was very little damping at best, giving you the sensation of being tossed into the air, and I did recall topping-out on occasion.
That's probably what your friend meant to say, and I'd agree with him. I had a pair of Progressive 440s (13 inch) on my Street Glide for about 3000 miles, and I experienced that "rebound top out" on more than one occasion. It wasn't just a sensation of being tossed into the air...my *** literally broke contact with the seat. In this diagram, http://www.progressivesuspension.com/drpat440.html Progressive shows that they have some sort of top out protection, but I wasn't very impressed with it. In all fairness to Progressive, I remember almost losing control of the bike on the same bump with the stock Harley air shocks on the Street Glide. It was like getting bucked off of a bronco at the rodeo.

Originally Posted by iclick
To be fair to the Progressives, they were an improvement over the stock 12" SG shock, but any modicum of damping over a hardtail would ride better. Also, had I gone with 440's with more stroke (e.g. 13") I'm sure the result would've been better, which is why I always recommend that people in the market buy the tallest shock they can live with.
I agree that the Progressive 440 is a definite improvement over the stock junk, but when a product like Ohlins is available, it's worth the extra cash. If you're going to all the trouble of upgrading your suspension, do it right the first time and save money in the long run.
 

Last edited by Then Came Bronson; Apr 8, 2012 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueKite
Interesting thread, but let's be absolutely clear about this. It is outrageous that hd is selling a 20 grand plus touring bike with crap suspension.

When are the customer base going to speak out?
I've been bitching and complaining about this for the two years I've owned my Street Glide.

It is a travesty that any new Harley owner coughs up over $20K for a new touring bike, and ends up with substandard junk for a suspension. I can't even imagine how livid I would be if I forked out close to $40K for a CVO bagger, and ended up with basically the same suspension.

The Ducati Multistrada costs about the same as a Street Glide, and comes with an electronically adjustable Ohlins suspension. Just click, click on the button by your handgrip, and set the suspension (on the fly, if you need to) to a preset value (on your LED screen), or customize your setting.

As it stands now, I will never buy another new Harley. I will just keep my trusty old '93 FXR and my 2010 SG for the duration.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Do I understand correctly that the #2'S are not adjustable? There's a big difference riding solo and 2 up fully loaded. Is that the reason to get the #3's?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by shadowchaser
Do I understand correctly that the #2'S are not adjustable? There's a big difference riding solo and 2 up fully loaded. Is that the reason to get the #3's?
Shadow,

The 2 series have adjustable pre-load. You adjust the pre-load to set the sag on the bike. You're right, there is a big difference riding solo and 2 up fully loaded, and you can adjust your pre-load accordingly, based on that weight change to set the correct sag.

The 3 series is a more adjustable shock. You can adjust the length of the shock. You can adjust the pre-load of the shock (same as the 2 series), and you can adjust the compression/rebound of the shock via the sweep valve.

It's just my opinion, but I think the 3 series is obviously the more versatile of the two, and it is probably the better choice for someone that bounces around a lot between solo riding and 2 up loaded riding. You should consult Howard to decide which shock is best for you.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 03:42 AM
  #57  
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Just to add to TCBs words. We concentrate a lot on length and travel in these shock discussions, but overlook design of the damping mechanism. #3 shocks have superior damping to #2s, so when I discussed my requirements with Howard, although there is an attractive #2 version with around 4" travel, he assured me the #3-3 with 3" travel has better damping and control. So take that into account when deciding which version to buy, also bear in mind that Howard will talk through such things in detail.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 08:46 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by iclick
be sure to ask for the hdforums discount. It was very generous when i bought mine three years ago.
20-30%?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:46 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by shadowchaser
Do I understand correctly that the #2'S are not adjustable? There's a big difference riding solo and 2 up fully loaded. Is that the reason to get the #3's?
Could be. I ride only solo but never adjust preload even in touring trim (loaded Tour Pak and saddlebags). I would imagine riding 2-up would require a pre-load adjustment, especially when loaded for touring, but for solo the standard setting is perfect for me at 170#.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Just to add to TCBs words. We concentrate a lot on length and travel in these shock discussions, but overlook design of the damping mechanism. #3 shocks have superior damping to #2s, so when I discussed my requirements with Howard, although there is an attractive #2 version with around 4" travel, he assured me the #3-3 with 3" travel has better damping and control. So take that into account when deciding which version to buy, also bear in mind that Howard will talk through such things in detail.
Howard is the expert and as a rank non-expert I certainly wouldn't dispute him, but when I was researching this I found that the biggest appeal of the #3 seemed to be that they separated the damping media (air and oil) while the #2 combined them. The idea is that in hard riding, like motocross or off-road, the shock is working so hard that mixing can occur, and that causes a temporary deterioration of damping quality. For normal riding on paved roads I decided that mixing would not be a factor, and so far I haven't noticed any deterioration of ride quality on sub-par roads, which are plentiful here in LA.

I haven't ridden a bike with #3's installed, so they may indeed be even better. I can't say, but if I had to do it again I would make the same purchase. Price has a lot to do with this mindset, though.
 
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