Idle Cable Necessary?
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Idle Cable Necessary?
The idle cable on my '07 FLHRS just broke and I find that I can run and ride without the idle cable with no apparent problems so far just checking it on a short run. I do have about 1/8 to 1/4 turn of throttle slop that may or may not be related.
My question is what purpose does the idle cable serve and is it necessary. The throttle body has a strong spring that returns the throttle to neutral without relying on the idle cable. I guess if that spring broke it would be nice to have the cable to pull back to idle. Is having this cable a government mandated safety feature?
And any suggestions for getting rid of the play in the throttle grip? If I try to adjust it out at the throttle cable adjuster by the switch housing I run out of threads on the adjuster before getting rid of it.
Thanks
My question is what purpose does the idle cable serve and is it necessary. The throttle body has a strong spring that returns the throttle to neutral without relying on the idle cable. I guess if that spring broke it would be nice to have the cable to pull back to idle. Is having this cable a government mandated safety feature?
And any suggestions for getting rid of the play in the throttle grip? If I try to adjust it out at the throttle cable adjuster by the switch housing I run out of threads on the adjuster before getting rid of it.
Thanks
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 147
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From: Belleville, il
I think its a safety issue. Like you said, if it sticks open you better shut it down quick. Im not sure when they started using the idle cable, my 77 glide didnt have one, and I didnt run one on my 94 softail either.
So is it needed? NO. (some may disagree)
So is it needed? NO. (some may disagree)
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
IMHO you should have them both. I have been riding since before twin cables became a requirement and while on old bikes they may be fine, modern bikes are set up to use both. For example old bikes had much stronger return springs - one reason for keeping twin cables is they are less effort to operate.
The idle cable, as noted is just a safety feature. It can also come in handy as a spare, if your throttle cable breaks while you're on the road, you can rig the idle cable to function as a throttle cable, (your throttle would operate in reverse, though).
There is a specific sequence for adjusting the throttle and idle cables. It's laid out in the service manual for you.
It's a simple process. You need to remove your air cleaner so you can access the throttle wheel on the fuel induction module.
Pull back the rubber boots, and loosen the jam nuts. Back the adjusters out all the way (full slack) on both cables. With the handlebars straight ahead, turn the grip to open the throttle all the way, and hold it open. Then turn the cable adjuster to take the slack out of the cable, and until the throttle wheel (on the throttle body) just hits the stop. Add another turn to the adjuster, and lock it down with the jam nut.
Then turn your bars all the way to the right, and take the slack out of the cable with the adjuster. What you want is for the cable housing to just contact the spring that's inside the cable guide on the throttle body housing. If the throttle returns to idle smoothly, tighten the jam nut down. You can play around with the adjuster a turn or so either way to get the best response. Cover the adjusters with the boots, reinstall the air cleaner and go for a ride.
No special tools required, it takes 20-30 minutes or so, including r&r on the air cleaner.
There is a specific sequence for adjusting the throttle and idle cables. It's laid out in the service manual for you.
It's a simple process. You need to remove your air cleaner so you can access the throttle wheel on the fuel induction module.
Pull back the rubber boots, and loosen the jam nuts. Back the adjusters out all the way (full slack) on both cables. With the handlebars straight ahead, turn the grip to open the throttle all the way, and hold it open. Then turn the cable adjuster to take the slack out of the cable, and until the throttle wheel (on the throttle body) just hits the stop. Add another turn to the adjuster, and lock it down with the jam nut.
Then turn your bars all the way to the right, and take the slack out of the cable with the adjuster. What you want is for the cable housing to just contact the spring that's inside the cable guide on the throttle body housing. If the throttle returns to idle smoothly, tighten the jam nut down. You can play around with the adjuster a turn or so either way to get the best response. Cover the adjusters with the boots, reinstall the air cleaner and go for a ride.
No special tools required, it takes 20-30 minutes or so, including r&r on the air cleaner.
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Ultimate HDF Member
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Thanks for the responses. I guess I will buy both cables because I have the Diamondback cables and they only come as a pair.
I agree the only purpose seems to be for an extra layer of safety. And I do know the adjustment procedure, and yes, I have a service manual.
I agree the only purpose seems to be for an extra layer of safety. And I do know the adjustment procedure, and yes, I have a service manual.
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