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How Do You Install New Mufflers?

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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #11  
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I just put set of Pythons on the RK. I though about anti-seize but decided not to use it. The mufflers came with new clamps so I did use them and torqued to 40 ft-lbs. Someone mentioned stretch. Stretch was evident to me as I approached the 40 ft-lb reading.

I live in the northeast so the last week's crappy weather kept me from trying them out. Maybe today if I dress warmly.....
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:25 AM
  #12  
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Whats the best way to track down and fix an exhaust leak? I recently installed a 2:1 header and slip on and I think I have a lead at the front cylinder head. It doesn't sound quite right at when first taking off, like the sound is coming from the front of the bike, not the rear like it should. After a little bit of riding and everything is warmed up, sounds normal. Would this be the gasket at the head expanding and sealing up any leaks when it gets hot? Is this a serious matter, affecting my bike in other ways? I did tighten everything down after the first couple of rides. Thanks for any input.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by cochon
If you torque to "good and tight" you could very well get "good and broke". Use a torque wrench and do it right.
Quite right, I'm constantly surprised at how little force many Harley fasteners require to be "tight". It's really easy to overtighten without using a torque wrench. It really doesn't take much to overstress the fasteners.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by marvincbr
Whats the best way to track down and fix an exhaust leak? I recently installed a 2:1 header and slip on and I think I have a lead at the front cylinder head. It doesn't sound quite right at when first taking off, like the sound is coming from the front of the bike, not the rear like it should.
Mix some dishwashing detergent with water and with the engine cold brush it around where you think it's leaking, then start it up. If it's leaking you'll see bubbles form at the point of leakage.

By the way, this works great for locating a tire leak as well, and it's great for checking natural gas piping fittings (around the house) after it's been disconnected/ reconnected.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 10:30 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by jcb1975@yahoo.com
Very sound advice. There is a reason for torque specifications and sequences. Whenever those specs are available, no compromise, I follow them. It's your bike, so do as you will.
so you always use a torque wrench then? every bolt on a hd has a torque spec.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 10:50 AM
  #16  
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Yes on the anti-seize and no on the torqe. New clamps, get them good and tight, go for a ride. When done with ride and bike has cooled back down to room temp, re-tighten clamps. Have done it this way for many years on a lot of harleys. Never had one come loose and came off fairly easy when changing to different mufflers.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 12:09 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by skratch
so you always use a torque wrench then? every bolt on a hd has a torque spec.
Unless for some reason I cannot fit a torque wrench into where it needs to go, yes, I use a torque wrench to verify on every bolt.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 04:18 PM
  #18  
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Replaced muffler clamps yesterday. Reused the old ones but didn't hold very well. Didn't use a torque wrench on the muffler clamps. No need on the muffler clamps. Nice and very tight. Opted out on the anti-seize also.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by FenderGuy53
Last week I installed my Jackpots. I brushed on some High Temp Anti Seize around the outside end of the headpipes, then slipped on the mufflers and torqued the clamps to spec.

I haven't been able to ride since the installation, since the weather here on the East Coast has been rather rainy lately.
Took a ride down to the dealership and back (45 mile round trip) on Saturday. SG ran great and SOUNDED great. I LOVE my Jackpots!

Anti-seize, stock clamps and torque wrench. Voila!
 
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