Open Belt Primary
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2008
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Open Belt Primary
I recently bought an open belt primary for my RK - paid a hefty chunk of $ for it too. I did quite a bit of online research before I bought it but I didn't bother talking to the dealer who I wanted to install it - until today. I was stoked about the primary...until the dealer talked me out of it. They said they've installed a few and every one has been trouble, mostly with the belt and proper spacing. They said it would take up to 12 hours to get it just right and were very honest with me. That spoke volumes. They could have shot me a line of bs and took my money but didn't. The belt primary will be returned tomorrow!
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 265
Likes: 2
hmmm...
12 hours to set up the primary? Are you sure the dealer just didnt want to do it because they werent comfortable with doing the work? There's a couple shops by me (not dealers) that seem like every bike they have out front or in for service has a open primary. someone is setting them up.
12 hours to set up the primary? Are you sure the dealer just didnt want to do it because they werent comfortable with doing the work? There's a couple shops by me (not dealers) that seem like every bike they have out front or in for service has a open primary. someone is setting them up.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 974
Likes: 13
From: Chesapeake Virginia
Not sure what they are doing to GET IT RIGHT. I have run a primary belt for years and it is much simpler and more forgiving than a chain. If it is a reputable manufacturer it should fit fine read the instructions and do it yourself or take it to an Indy for his opinion.
What? That is the most ridiculous line of BS I've ever heard. Sorry. I don't know what brand belt kit you purchased, but I've installed several over the years and IIRC, at most maybe 4-5 hours tops. (with a few beer breaks). The new TC bikes make it even easier as the engine and tranny are tied together. Back in the day, you had to loosen your tranny mounts, install your primary plate, tighten to the engine and tranny, then retighten the tranny mounting bolts. Seriously, if you have the tools to remove the compensator and clutch basket, the rest is basic tools. I have found Karata's kits to be the beefiest, and most complete. I've ran BDL's too and they are not near the quality of a Karata. Primo makes a bullet proof dry clutch. Don't give up on this project. It will be unique and will stand up to all the HP you can throw at it. If you're not comfortable with the job find an Indy shop that isn't afraid of old school stuff. That's not the kind of job I'd take to a dealer. I have no idea what the are referring to about spacing either. Sounds like a hack.
Last edited by dgdamore; May 15, 2012 at 08:55 PM.
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2008
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Not sure what they are doing to GET IT RIGHT. I have run a primary belt for years and it is much simpler and more forgiving than a chain. If it is a reputable manufacturer it should fit fine read the instructions and do it yourself or take it to an Indy for his opinion.
It's an Ultimate belt drive and it's in the box in the back of my truck. I'm considering doing the work myself. I have some mechanical ability (rebuilt Chevy motors in the past) and the instructions make it look easy. Do you think I should give it a go? It's going on a 2005 RK and I know that I'll be happy with it once I get er on. Any tips you can pass along?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Springer on the Vtwin Forum had these comments:
I have run a open 3" Primary on my bike for 13 years, without guards. I also run floorboards and my foot is a mere inch or less away. All my boots have a groove cut into them from rubbing on the front belt pulley.
With my old belt drive (primo 3"), I threw the belt off once and had to force it back on on the side of the road, but it got me home. I have since upgraded to a 3" BDL belt drive and it is a lot more stabile with the motor/tranny plate than the old one. I ride my bike hard and the belts take it.
Belt drives are noisier because the clutch is exposed and there is no noise suppression from a primary cover. The clutch tends to be noisiest when you are sitting still and the clutch is pulled in. When riding you get more of a whine like a blower belt on a hot rod.
Belt drives are more "Jerky" than stock primary drives. When you hit the throttle or back off, the belt drive transfers that immediately to the rear wheel. The stock drive has a compensating sprocket, which "gives" and takes the edge off, smoothing out the ride.
All in all, I prefer the Belt drives but I can understand why someone would prefer the chain.
I have run a open 3" Primary on my bike for 13 years, without guards. I also run floorboards and my foot is a mere inch or less away. All my boots have a groove cut into them from rubbing on the front belt pulley.
With my old belt drive (primo 3"), I threw the belt off once and had to force it back on on the side of the road, but it got me home. I have since upgraded to a 3" BDL belt drive and it is a lot more stabile with the motor/tranny plate than the old one. I ride my bike hard and the belts take it.
Belt drives are noisier because the clutch is exposed and there is no noise suppression from a primary cover. The clutch tends to be noisiest when you are sitting still and the clutch is pulled in. When riding you get more of a whine like a blower belt on a hot rod.
Belt drives are more "Jerky" than stock primary drives. When you hit the throttle or back off, the belt drive transfers that immediately to the rear wheel. The stock drive has a compensating sprocket, which "gives" and takes the edge off, smoothing out the ride.
All in all, I prefer the Belt drives but I can understand why someone would prefer the chain.
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2008
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If you've rebuilt Chevy engines, you should have no problem installing a belt primary provided the kit is complete and accurate. Take pictures of how everything comes apart. If you run into any major problems you can always put your old primary back on. Does the kit include a billet primary plate and belt/pulley covers? Don't be discouraged it will be sick in the end!
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
tip 1. no air impact tools.
the magnets can be knocked off the rotor, destroying the stator. the shifter cogs in the tranny can be damaged.
make sure you have the shop manual- otherwise how would you know the clutch hub nut is a left hand thread.
what about clutch, did you get the stuff you need for a dry clutch ?
do you need to mod the shifter ?
pegs/floorboards ?
my take on open primary: why put something on your bike that only needs a rock bouncing up from the front tire to leave you on the side of the road ?
there is no mechanical, performance or rideability advantage over the stock compesator sprocket, chain drive & wet clutch
( I gotta 11mm primo inside the tins on the '53)
Mike
the magnets can be knocked off the rotor, destroying the stator. the shifter cogs in the tranny can be damaged.
make sure you have the shop manual- otherwise how would you know the clutch hub nut is a left hand thread.
what about clutch, did you get the stuff you need for a dry clutch ?
do you need to mod the shifter ?
pegs/floorboards ?
my take on open primary: why put something on your bike that only needs a rock bouncing up from the front tire to leave you on the side of the road ?
there is no mechanical, performance or rideability advantage over the stock compesator sprocket, chain drive & wet clutch
( I gotta 11mm primo inside the tins on the '53)
Mike
