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Ignition cuts out :(

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Old May 21, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dyna07custom
I would ck the kill switch seen a few of those go bad and radio would stay on

Groovy, thanks will loook into it this afternoon.



cheers
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 01:34 AM
  #12  
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Hey this is exactly my prob. My 12 flstf is brand new. Shut off on me on the road. Right before it died, the engine cut off for a second, then resumed power. It's been in the shop for a week and they were thinking crankcase pos sensor, and then the map. Now they are sting digging. I'm pretty pissed. It's only got 30 miles on it and the Alaskan summer doesn't last too long. Any other clues?
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #13  
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Sounds like a classic carb jetting issue.....depending on miles and how long its sat with fuel in it, I would look at it as the culprid.
 
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Old May 25, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #14  
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It's not carb issues. The ignition cuts out, fuel goes in, ignition starts firing again igniting all the raw fuel that wasn't burned with a kapow. Dirty carb, poor jetting (like not adjusting for free flowing exhaust) will give drivability problems, not stop the plugs from firing.

The radio keeps playing and I checked the battery connections so main power has nothing to do with it.

It only happens under certain load conditions which leads me to the MAP.

I'm looking to get a scan tool, see this thread... https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...scan-tool.html

The scan tool will let me view historical data which will tell me what's going on with each input sensor.



cheers
 
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #15  
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Well I think I finally figured it out.

I noticed that the bike would act up mostly after left hand turns. I pulled out the Bank Angle Switch, cut the top off and filled it with dielectric grease and glued the top back on. Make sure if you do this to only cut the top 2mm, any more and you'll cut into the circuit board.

The grease will keep the little roller centered and stop it from moving and cutting out the ignition when it shouldn't be.

The ultimate test will come tomorrow when I ride it to work.



cheers
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 02:43 PM
  #16  
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Well that wasn't it, but I did find the issue, or at least one issue

While "running the bowels" of the main harness I came across this wire. It's the one from the ign switch to the fuse under the left side cover. The insulation was still intact but 99% of the wire strands were broken.
They way that the harness is strapped up alongside the neck definately led to this breakdown, it was VERY tight and with every turn of the bars it was pulling and bending.

Now I won't be so afraid of taking her out for a good ride in fear of being stranded.









cheers
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #17  
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Sauceman where is the Bank Angle Switch located on the bike, I am having a running issue with my bike and wondering if maybe that is my problem. Although my problem does not seem too be based on any turns or anything like that. Mine seems too occur when almost at idle, slowing down. My bike shuts down and then restarts, not real happy about restarting when I crack the throttle a bit. I did also have too repair a wire in the main harness on the right side of my bike because of the way it was run and how tight it was.

Thank you
Chris
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 04:09 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by cgrnh
Sauceman where is the Bank Angle Switch located on the bike, I am having a running issue with my bike and wondering if maybe that is my problem. Although my problem does not seem too be based on any turns or anything like that. Mine seems too occur when almost at idle, slowing down. My bike shuts down and then restarts, not real happy about restarting when I crack the throttle a bit. I did also have too repair a wire in the main harness on the right side of my bike because of the way it was run and how tight it was.

Thank you
Chris
What year is your bike, fuel injected or carb'd?

This is the Bank Angle switch...






cheers
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 06:34 PM
  #19  
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Opps I forgot too include that. My bike is a 2001 EG throttle body injection.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #20  
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Probably wouldn't hurt to re-torque your muffler clamps, 45 ft. pounds.
 
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