Clutch Question
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Novice
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Chicago
Clutch Question
I have an 07' Street Glide with about 7k miles. Just bought it a few months ago.
I've noticed two things with the clutch....
1) The hand-lever doesn't return all the way back, when you release it. Probably about 90% back. If you push it the rest of the way forward, it stays put. Do you think the cable needs to be lubed?
2) I've noticed that if i start the bike in gear, and have the clutch pulled back, it still seems slightly engaged, the bike wants to barely lurch forward when you hit the starter. I was curious if this was normal. Also got me wondering if the cable needed to be adjusted, and the two observations could be related.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
I've noticed two things with the clutch....
1) The hand-lever doesn't return all the way back, when you release it. Probably about 90% back. If you push it the rest of the way forward, it stays put. Do you think the cable needs to be lubed?
2) I've noticed that if i start the bike in gear, and have the clutch pulled back, it still seems slightly engaged, the bike wants to barely lurch forward when you hit the starter. I was curious if this was normal. Also got me wondering if the cable needed to be adjusted, and the two observations could be related.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Northern Illinois
I have an 07' Street Glide with about 7k miles. Just bought it a few months ago.
I've noticed two things with the clutch....
1) The hand-lever doesn't return all the way back, when you release it. Probably about 90% back. If you push it the rest of the way forward, it stays put. Do you think the cable needs to be lubed?
2) I've noticed that if i start the bike in gear, and have the clutch pulled back, it still seems slightly engaged, the bike wants to barely lurch forward when you hit the starter. I was curious if this was normal. Also got me wondering if the cable needed to be adjusted, and the two observations could be related.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
I've noticed two things with the clutch....
1) The hand-lever doesn't return all the way back, when you release it. Probably about 90% back. If you push it the rest of the way forward, it stays put. Do you think the cable needs to be lubed?
2) I've noticed that if i start the bike in gear, and have the clutch pulled back, it still seems slightly engaged, the bike wants to barely lurch forward when you hit the starter. I was curious if this was normal. Also got me wondering if the cable needed to be adjusted, and the two observations could be related.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
The Hand Lever not going totally back is normal, when you adjust the Cable, you leave between 1/16" and 1/8" of play at the Ferrule.
You might need a Clutch adjustment though.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
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From: anacoco, la
even though you have the clutch pulled in, there is still some residual drag on the clutch plates (especially when cold) which explains why you feel that slight lurch. now, it it lurches so much that it's hard to hold, then you definitely need an adjustment.
i adjust my clutch every 5k when i change the primary. is it overkill? probably. but with fresh fluids, and freshly adjusted cable, the bike feels almost like new....
i adjust my clutch every 5k when i change the primary. is it overkill? probably. but with fresh fluids, and freshly adjusted cable, the bike feels almost like new....
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Glendale AZ
Before I replaced my factory clutch cablefor my apes, the cable stretched enough that getting 1/8" at the ferrel was not possible without the adjustment point running out of thread....and the bike only had 3000 miles! I know! From what I hear thats not unusual!
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Novice
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Chicago
thanks for the feedback. i have the manual, so i'll tinker around with it.
if i think harder about it, i think it does it slightly more when the bike is cold. it's not so much that you can't hold it back. it's very minimal.
if i think harder about it, i think it does it slightly more when the bike is cold. it's not so much that you can't hold it back. it's very minimal.
Lurching can also be caused by too much oil in the primary. When you open it up to adjust the clutch maybe have a look at the fluid level.
And the freeplay on the lever is normal and optimal. It guarantees that the clutch is completely engaged once the lever is released. You can take up a bit of the slack by using the adjuster on the clutch cable in front of the motor.
And the freeplay on the lever is normal and optimal. It guarantees that the clutch is completely engaged once the lever is released. You can take up a bit of the slack by using the adjuster on the clutch cable in front of the motor.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Both of the items you describe are perfectly normal.
If the clutch lever did return all the way, then you have a problem (no freeplay in the clutch). A little freeplay in the lever is both desireable and necessary for proper clutch function.
As for the lurching, these bikes have wet clutches. They do not disengaged as crisply as a dry clutch would. The oil will tend to keep the plates "stuck together" until some mechanical force seperates them. That's the lurch you're feeling.
As for starting the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged, I'd save that for emergency situations and start the bike in nuetral as a standard practice. Much easier on the starter system.
If the clutch lever did return all the way, then you have a problem (no freeplay in the clutch). A little freeplay in the lever is both desireable and necessary for proper clutch function.
As for the lurching, these bikes have wet clutches. They do not disengaged as crisply as a dry clutch would. The oil will tend to keep the plates "stuck together" until some mechanical force seperates them. That's the lurch you're feeling.
As for starting the bike in gear with the clutch disengaged, I'd save that for emergency situations and start the bike in nuetral as a standard practice. Much easier on the starter system.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: San Antonio, Texas
When the bike is cold, the primary oil is cold and the clutch plates are stuck together by the oil between them. Ever try to pick up a piece of glass or metal on a table or flat surface that is wet on the bottom side? Same principle - the oil makes the plates harder to separate.
Personally, I wouldn't start the bike in gear, especially cold. Once running after a cold start, you can pull the clutch lever a couple of times to free things up a bit. You will still get the clunk, but not a lurch. Starting in gear is risky - there is always the chance you can forget the bike is in gear and forget to pull the clutch. You can do what you want, but my personal habit is to always start in neutral and pull the clutch before starting.
As for the lever not completely returning, yes, that's normal, given your cable slack is adjusted correctly as indicated by a previous post. You may need a clutch adjustment as well if the cable slack is correct and you still get a lurch.
Personally, I wouldn't start the bike in gear, especially cold. Once running after a cold start, you can pull the clutch lever a couple of times to free things up a bit. You will still get the clunk, but not a lurch. Starting in gear is risky - there is always the chance you can forget the bike is in gear and forget to pull the clutch. You can do what you want, but my personal habit is to always start in neutral and pull the clutch before starting.
As for the lever not completely returning, yes, that's normal, given your cable slack is adjusted correctly as indicated by a previous post. You may need a clutch adjustment as well if the cable slack is correct and you still get a lurch.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: anacoco, la
but, regardless, it is still a good practice to get in the habit of always pulling in the clutch when you start, even if you are in neutral.