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I have an 07 Street Glide and thought the battery was going bad since I kept having issues starting (like just not enough power) the bike. Bike has a 103 ci, Stage II with SE 255 Cams and SERT. I just figured it was time for a new battery, so I replaced it. I have also replaced all the stock cables with heavy duty 4 gauge copper cables. I have no issues starting the bike cold but after short/long runs it seems to be lower on the voltage end. When I get home from riding and put the HD plug in charger on, it seems to take almost a full day to fully charge. Funny when I'm driving down the road the voltage gage shows 14 volts but when I hit the starter it seems to drop fast. So now I'm thinking this is going to be a bad alternator or voltage regulator. Any thoughts on trouble shooting.
No I did not have compression releases installed at the time. The dealer had installed the kit on the bike before I bought it back in 07. The hard starting issue was never a problem before. The isssue I'm having is, I never remember the HD charger taking a full day to charge the battery. All the connections have been checked numerous times on this new battery. I have checked good voltage 13V + on the battery terminals when the bike is running. I just put a Rockford Fosgate 300X2 amp on the bike (problem was happening before amp install) but now it just seems more maginified. I'm thinking of checking the charging system. I just don't know what the output voltages should be at different RPM's.
The CCP (cold cranking pressure) for a 103" w/ 255 cams I believe is around 210. A CCP that high should have had compression releases (CR) installed. Even HD put's them on a stock 103", rethink this issue or get a second opinion.
If you did not have the problem before I disagree with needing compression releases. After riding for 20 to 30 minutes from last start it should not take more than a half hour for your tender to go green.
You could have a slew of problems that could cause your symptoms. I think I would fully charge and load test the battery first. Occasionally they are bad from the git go. Then start with alternator resistance and voltage output and then a load test while starting. Then solenoid check and then voltage drops. These are in order easiest to hardest IMO and could give you the answer with less work
Here are some numbers you asked for.
Starter current 200 amps max (68*F)
Stator resistance. PIN to PIN (all 3 pins 1-2, 2-3, 1-3) should be less than 1 ohm and typically 0.1-0.3. More than 1 ohm replace stator.
Stator output. At 2000 rpm AC voltage should be greater than 30 to 40 volts across all three pin combinations.
Current output. @ 3000 rpm and a load applied to maintain 13 volts on the battery current output should be 45-60 amps. After load is removed voltage should be less than 15 volts. If higher regulator is faulty or a connection is loose or dirty.
Voltage drops in good a circuit is typically less than 1 volt. Starting at the source and backtracking to the component for voltage drops through your electrical circuits makes finding hard to diagnosis issues easier.
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