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I'm thinking on getting the M6, as you can see from the below photos when I opened the primary, I'm seeing the chain chew into the case!! I've been hearing the knocking/slapping and I wanted to check the SE comp for fretting (which I found). Also found the damn rotor is shot. I pulled that to check the stator as I can smell that pungent smell.
Just out of curiousity vaham, why do you want to go with the Hayden?
Do you think that the HD auto tensioner is too tight?...........
I believe the theory is that the HD unit ratchets up to the point that it causes premature inner primary bearing failure, due to the chain becoming too tight. Maybe other things too, but I haven't seen any other components mentioned. The Hayden doesn't ratchet, it 'floats'. That's my understanding. Anyone more knowledgable, please feel free to jump in here.
Bottom line is yes some HD tensioners over tighten and the M6 is a good alternative. What you need to do is see if your chain is too tight. Mine is right at 5/8 and seems just fine.
I'm thinking on getting the M6, as you can see from the below photos when I opened the primary, I'm seeing the chain chew into the case!! I've been hearing the knocking/slapping and I wanted to check the SE comp for fretting (which I found). Also found the damn rotor is shot. I pulled that to check the stator as I can smell that pungent smell.
I don't know much about turning wrenches, but somehow I don't think the M6 is gonna solve that problem, if anything, it may allow MORE chain slap as it flexes both ways-not for nothing, but is your crank scissored, or the power-side crank bearing shot ? Did you index the shaft extension when you put the SE comp on ? I have heard some people say you can correct a small degree of runout by rotating the shaft a few degrees at a time and checking runout in each new position.
Everyone has read about the SE comp fretting/galling issues due to lack of lubrication, but the stiffer comp springs I think add some life to the rest of the drivetrain.I know there are some solutions being worked, and I understand one may be in the patent process..
I believe the theory is that the HD unit ratchets up to the point that it causes premature inner primary bearing failure, due to the chain becoming too tight. Maybe other things too, but I haven't seen any other components mentioned. The Hayden doesn't ratchet, it 'floats'. That's my understanding. Anyone more knowledgable, please feel free to jump in here.
RBWIDE, I would normally be pretty dang upset when someone tries to speak for me, but in this case, no harm, no foul....why don't you just take over the thread for me, and I can go ride the backroads!!
RBWIDE, I would normally be pretty dang upset when someone tries to speak for me, but in this case, no harm, no foul....why don't you just take over the thread for me, and I can go ride the backroads!!
I didn't notice until after that you were being addressed directly. Sorry. I guess I read a little too fast. Anyway, what you're proposing sounds like a lot more fun than posting here, so have at it. I'd be doing that myself if my ride wasn't disassembled at the moment. Have fun!
Sorry, not trying to miss lead anyone RK is a 96 EVO.
I had an M6 on my '96 RK and it was fine for a few years, but the springs eventually broke. Rather than worry about it from then on I just reinstalled the stock manual tensioner, then later bought the HD auto-tensioner which stayed on the bike for the duration. I had no problems with the HD unit except that it produced a whine, and neither that one nor the stock one in my '07 SG ever gave me any issues, including adjusting too tight. I check mine every time I change the primary oil using a flashlight and long screwdriver, and tension always looks normal (~5/8" deflection when warm).
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