is it still my battery???
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 391
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From: B.C. Canada
is it still my battery???
Started a thread about a week ago, dreaded clicking. It was suggested that my batter was the culprit so I disconnected the starter relay as suggested. I used my manual push button on the solenoid, bike started up good. Before I started the bike I put a tester on the posts (not load tested), with the battery out of the bike, 12.6 volts. When I hooked the battery back up to the bike I turn on the ignition and the volt gauge on the bikes fairing registers right around 11 volts, could this be a bad cell? Not enough volts to use the start button on handle bar. When I use the solenoid start, the gauge goes right up to 14 volts after the bike is started. I had the battery loaded tested at 2 different places. First place they said the battery was good. Second place they gave me a report, 449 cca, and volts is 12.72, this place claims they load tested it. So battery checks out good?? I dunno!
Now I am stumped, is it a loose connection some where. Last thing I want to do is go for a rip and have the bike die on me. Not fond of pushing an 800lb bike home, already had to do that, 2 block is far enough for me. Getting old for that. Should I go for a ride with the starter relay dis-connected, to see if the wiring in that part of the bike is faulity? Or is it a VR, and the bike dies when the battery runs down. Do you experts still think I should replace the battery. I want to get the old girl running again, summers aren't to long around here. I appreciate any helpful tips, thanks.
Scot
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Now I am stumped, is it a loose connection some where. Last thing I want to do is go for a rip and have the bike die on me. Not fond of pushing an 800lb bike home, already had to do that, 2 block is far enough for me. Getting old for that. Should I go for a ride with the starter relay dis-connected, to see if the wiring in that part of the bike is faulity? Or is it a VR, and the bike dies when the battery runs down. Do you experts still think I should replace the battery. I want to get the old girl running again, summers aren't to long around here. I appreciate any helpful tips, thanks.
Scot
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 17
From: Rosamond, Cali
I'm sure not an expert. I guess you've figured out the battery is not likely the issue. I'd disregard the bike's volt meter readings (14 running at a high idle is pretty good, and maybe an 11 VDC reading on the gauge with key on/engine off is reasonable, assuming lights and everything else are on then with no charging taking place...).
From your description, I'd guess something is wrong related to the solenoid. Especially if you can use the manual button on the end of the solenoid, and the bike no longer 'clicks' but starts right up... My understanding is that button substitutes for the solenoid action. So it sounds to me like everything is working as it should...except maybe the solenoid.
Alan
From your description, I'd guess something is wrong related to the solenoid. Especially if you can use the manual button on the end of the solenoid, and the bike no longer 'clicks' but starts right up... My understanding is that button substitutes for the solenoid action. So it sounds to me like everything is working as it should...except maybe the solenoid.
Alan
Last edited by AlanStansbery; Jun 27, 2012 at 05:56 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 9
From: Colorado Springs CO
I would check all the connections to ensure there was no lose connections. Eliminate any electrical mods (if any) then eliminate the battery. If the problem still exists then the solenoid is next. I would also consider checking the wires from the starter switch to the starter.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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Started a thread about a week ago, dreaded clicking. It was suggested that my batter was the culprit so I disconnected the starter relay as suggested. I used my manual push button on the solenoid, bike started up good. Before I started the bike I put a tester on the posts (not load tested), with the battery out of the bike, 12.6 volts. When I hooked the battery back up to the bike I turn on the ignition and the volt gauge on the bikes fairing registers right around 11 volts, could this be a bad cell? Not enough volts to use the start button on handle bar. When I use the solenoid start, the gauge goes right up to 14 volts after the bike is started. I had the battery loaded tested at 2 different places. First place they said the battery was good. Second place they gave me a report, 449 cca, and volts is 12.72, this place claims they load tested it. So battery checks out good?? I dunno!
Now I am stumped, is it a loose connection some where. Last thing I want to do is go for a rip and have the bike die on me. Not fond of pushing an 800lb bike home, already had to do that, 2 block is far enough for me. Getting old for that. Should I go for a ride with the starter relay dis-connected, to see if the wiring in that part of the bike is faulity? Or is it a VR, and the bike dies when the battery runs down. Do you experts still think I should replace the battery. I want to get the old girl running again, summers aren't to long around here. I appreciate any helpful tips, thanks.
Scot
__________________
Now I am stumped, is it a loose connection some where. Last thing I want to do is go for a rip and have the bike die on me. Not fond of pushing an 800lb bike home, already had to do that, 2 block is far enough for me. Getting old for that. Should I go for a ride with the starter relay dis-connected, to see if the wiring in that part of the bike is faulity? Or is it a VR, and the bike dies when the battery runs down. Do you experts still think I should replace the battery. I want to get the old girl running again, summers aren't to long around here. I appreciate any helpful tips, thanks.
Scot
__________________
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From: Honah Lee
Charge it good for two steady days with the maintenance charger. Pull the battery completely out to do that. (Note do not use a full size battery charger on a gel. It says right on the battery not to do it. By pulling it you will eliminate loose connections. after fully charged, take to Walmart or AutoZone and have them do a load test. (must be fully charged. That will show you your cold cranking amp reserve. if it fells Sears has a good deal on the gel battery, Walmart within 5 bucks of Sears and 2/3 of Harley's and it's the same battery. If its OK ping me and I will go further with my expertise.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: B.C. Canada
Thanks everyone for your help. I will delve into this. I will keep you posted. It will be about a week before I get at it. We have something else that is a priority, yea I know, what could be more important than the Hog. Anyhow thanks for the suggestions, I will check the solenoid out and see what comes of it. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated, I need to get this thing sorted out.
You guys rock!
You guys rock!