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Bagger wobble exposed!

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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 02:50 PM
  #571  
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Originally Posted by MarktheYank
After all the discussion about rubber mounting, cleve blocks, replacement bushings, spherical bearings, etc etc, I am questioning which way to proceed. OEM replacement parts, cheap aftermarket or on up the line through the expensive upgrades (velva-ride and so on).
Sorry for the long question, just enjoy this bike tremendously, am not made of money, but want to do it so it will be acceptable for a good while. I am leaning towards complete OE< replacement parts - any thoughts?
True-Track used to sell rubber mounts, but I notice they don't do so now, so I agree with hattitude, use stock front and rear factory rubber mounts. I know there are other aftermarket options, but I live in the UK and many such parts are not available over here, so I have to order them myself from the USA, if I want them. That makes them expensive and me very picky on what I buy!

Avoid the stock cleve blocks, they are not to be recommended! Your bike had them when new and for replacements I suggest using alternative solid swingarm bushings. I have True-Track, but there are many other brands, some made of metal, others are some form of plastic. Sponsor Motorcycle Metal also sells them, possibly at discount to HDF members.

The True-Track stabilizer kit is very worthwhile - starve for a month, if ya have to!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 03:05 PM
  #572  
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Been hearing this for many years never had an issue with it. A lot of it was brought on by aftermarket trying to sell more of their performance parts.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2017 | 03:11 PM
  #573  
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Been hearing this for many years never had an issue with it. A lot of it was brought on by aftermarket trying to sell more of their performance parts.
Then you are a fortunate chap! As mentioned at the outset not all of us experience these problems, they are not universal. Give thanks, ride on and enjoy!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 10:46 PM
  #574  
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Ok its a lot of info here. But I am frustrated as to why my bike wobbles above 90mph, recently.

Riding a 2013 SG.

Bike was performing fine above 90mph, after I took out the batwing, replaced stock speakers, put back the batwing and screwed in a screw at the bottom of the batwing which was missing and changed to a Michelin Commander rear tire.

Thereafter, my bike start to wobble.

Could it be my tyre issue? or bat wing issue?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 08:38 AM
  #575  
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Been hearing this for many years never had an issue with it. A lot of it was brought on by aftermarket trying to sell more of their performance parts.
Same here, no problems on 03 or my 07...death wobble free
 
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 09:34 AM
  #576  
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Originally Posted by twinchrome
Ok its a lot of info here. But I am frustrated as to why my bike wobbles above 90mph, recently.

Riding a 2013 SG.

Bike was performing fine above 90mph, after I took out the batwing, replaced stock speakers, put back the batwing and screwed in a screw at the bottom of the batwing which was missing and changed to a Michelin Commander rear tire.

Thereafter, my bike start to wobble.

Could it be my tyre issue? or bat wing issue?

Generally a new tire usually helps but it could be an issue.. I own an 07 EGC that has always been slightly bobbley on hard corners when the road surface has been uneven at speeds above 70/80. It did pretty well with Avon cobras, E3s and CIIs. It didn't like American Elites. It has hardware to stabilize the rear and the every thing has been gone through at one time or another.. Steering bearing preload, Fork bushings, alignment, suspension up grades, swingarm bearings, rubber donuts, wheels, wheel bearings etc. It still likes to dance a little when pushed hard. Bike has almost 80,000 miles on it..

It currently has an E4 on the rear and a 1/2 worn CII 130-18 on the front. I run street glide wheels. Much of the issue seems to be rider induced. Trying to hole the bike steady can make it worse. I'm sure the Khromewerks pull back bars and C&C seat are not helping with stability. The 2 move the riding position back which I think contributes to the instability.

I have been having belt tracking issues (it's always been a bit off) so I decided to grind the snail cam stop until the rear belt tracked better. Only toke about 0.020" off.. That coupled with the new tire has helped but I really need to get some more miles on it.. I plan on redoing the alignment next since the direction of the rear wheel has changed slightly.

One of the things I've thought about is removing the radio and speakers to see if it helps. I don't use them so for me it's not a big loss..

I do think that weight on the front makes a big difference. I have an 02 RKC that runs like it's on rails after simple suspension up-grades and mag wheels. IMO it handles slightly better than the 2017 M8 RK that I have. It mainly feels lighter and has more neutral steering but is every bit as stable. It has over 70,000 mile on it.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 03:21 AM
  #577  
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Been hearing this for many years never had an issue with it. A lot of it was brought on by aftermarket trying to sell more of their performance parts.


You are indeed fortunate as mentioned. I was quite surprised when I purchased my new to me, 2011 SG. The instability on long sweeping curves was immediately noticeable. I thought I was buying a "sofa glide" ! The instability was on par with the rigid, big tire chopper I rode for years.


Anyway, it's definitely not made up to sell aftermarket parts.


I will have to follow one of/some of the suggestions in this thread to obtain that sofa glide ride I was expecting.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 06:27 AM
  #578  
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Been hearing this for many years never had an issue with it. A lot of it was brought on by aftermarket trying to sell more of their performance parts.
It happened to me on my FXSTC on one occasion one time.
I was going 25-30 mph and the front end just started shaking violently back and forth. It felt like I guess a flat tire might feel even though I've never had one(Thank God).
Took it to my local shop and had it checked out, some grease added to the neck bearing and play in it was w/in spec so nothing further was done.
It was kinda spooky though.
I would have probably lost it had I been going over 35-40 mph.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 07:16 AM
  #579  
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it's unfortunate that some people have experienced this issue
 
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 08:01 AM
  #580  
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Originally Posted by twinchrome
Ok its a lot of info here. But I am frustrated as to why my bike wobbles above 90mph, recently.

Riding a 2013 SG.

Bike was performing fine above 90mph, after I took out the batwing, replaced stock speakers, put back the batwing and screwed in a screw at the bottom of the batwing which was missing and changed to a Michelin Commander rear tire.

Thereafter, my bike start to wobble.

Could it be my tyre issue? or bat wing issue?
Not many of us ride into that speed range, so there aren't so many of us with extensive experience to give you good solid advice. The batwing isn't very good aerodynamically, so may have contributed to the problem. What state is your front tyre? If it is a different brand and getting a bit low on tread depth (or old in years), swap it for a matching version of your rear. Also check the Michelin website for recommended pressures, as not all brands use the numbers in your owners manual.
 
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