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Great write up and explanation. I would like to know more then what was changed on the Rushmores. My 2013 RGU had a horrible wobble from brand new. But my 2014 Limited has never had it and I have over 100k miles on the original mounts, bushings, etc. The only change was replacing the steering neck bearings during the 100k service.
I find it interesting that you road-glide wobbled and the batwing didn't. I figured that the weight of the fairing on the batwing forks was a major contributor to the issue.
Still I expect that some of it is due to stack-up tolerances that limit the compression of the rubber bushings. The spacing on the frame between the rubber isolators is simply a little wider on some bikes compared to the stack-up of parts that make up the tranny/swingarm and isolators.
Looks to me like the alloy art product ought to accomplish the same thing as others, and $150 for a couple brackets connected by a turnbuckle is already highway robbery; $400+ for a true track or glide pro is just ridiculous. If I weren't so far from shop to work in I'd try fabricating something myself... I noticed "wobble" early on in some longer sweeping curves and have lived with it so far but I refuse to go another season this way--thinking I'll order the alloy art and give it a try. Maybe smooth rider @$160 could be another option...?
Looks to me like the alloy art product ought to accomplish the same thing as others, and $150 for a couple brackets connected by a turnbuckle is already highway robbery; $400+ for a true track or glide pro is just ridiculous. If I weren't so far from shop to work in I'd try fabricating something myself... I noticed "wobble" early on in some longer sweeping curves and have lived with it so far but I refuse to go another season this way--thinking I'll order the alloy art and give it a try. Maybe smooth rider @$160 could be another option...?
The smooth rider looks like a good solution. My likes are :
1. It doesnt have a turnbuckle to maintain
2. It is only mechanical connected when it has to function
3. Easy to mount and set up
4. Once set up needs no maintainence other than keeping clean
4. No clearance issues under the Bike
5. Not mounted to or blocking air to the pan.
Would be greatif its operating plane were perpendicular to the travel of the Bike instead of inline for more mechanical advantage.
I guess it could be tested the way Max showed in an earlier thread but that would mean having a few competing products at hand........
The Glide Pro is not a brace but a new set of mounts and pivot rod. Still pricey though. This set together with the smooth rider PLUS a front stabiliser (if a later than 09 Bike) seems like a belt and braces solution but is serious cash.
Maybe smooth rider @$160 could be another option...?
It is certainly an option, but there are some disputable things on their website, although that can also be said of some other products that claim to fix the 'wobble '!
As the rear shocks compress, they pull the motor back. Under acceleration the motor moves forward.
Are you saying the motor would shoot out of the front of the bike under acceleration if the rear shocks didn't compress? That's really not true, and I'm not at all clear how you've come to that conclusion, if that is what you're saying here.
The motor pulls against the top of the drive belt, pulling the tire forward, or the engine & transmission assembly backwards. As neither can actually move towards the other, the rear wheel spins instead, moving the bike.
..the rings are to limit compression but allow radial movement..
Those steel rings do little to affect axial compression. They do stabilize the bushing in radial deflection. Just look at the sheer failures in that cut away bushing for example.
Looks to me like the alloy art product ought to accomplish the same thing as others, and $150 for a couple brackets connected by a turnbuckle is already highway robbery; $400+ for a true track or glide pro is just ridiculous. If I weren't so far from shop to work in I'd try fabricating something myself... I noticed "wobble" early on in some longer sweeping curves and have lived with it so far but I refuse to go another season this way--thinking I'll order the alloy art and give it a try. Maybe smooth rider @$160 could be another option...?
There are 2 issues with this IMO. 1. There is no way to set the bushing clearance as it wears. 2. The device can flex. It really doesn't have any lateral strength.
Are you saying the motor would shoot out of the front of the bike under acceleration if the rear shocks didn't compress? That's really not true, and I'm not at all clear how you've come to that conclusion, if that is what you're saying here.
The motor pulls against the top of the drive belt, pulling the tire forward, or the engine & transmission assembly backwards. As neither can actually move towards the other, the rear wheel spins instead, moving the bike.
Nope.. I simply saying that the load load on the rear shocks have some effect on the position of the motor. They do counteract dome of the load in the bushing under acceleration. Ever wonder why the hole in stock donut is offset high and forward?
The forces you are discussing are forces within the drive train which Are the motor/tranny/swingarm/rear wheel. The belt tension does try to lift the front of the motor some and push the swing arm pivot down but the main force is pushing the rear wheel forward at ground contact along with the whole drive train. Pre 09 frames used a single front rubber mount to control the thrust of the motor under acceleration. You notice that it's tilted forward to do so.
Those steel rings do little to affect axial compression. They do stabilize the bushing in radial deflection. Just look at the sheer failures in that cut away bushing for example.
I guess we'll have to disagree on that one.. The control compression by not allowing the rubber to bulge outward radially. In doing so the bushing compresses less but still has radial flexure. The shear failure was on a bushing that had the bands, how did they help there?
Looks to me like the alloy art product ought to accomplish the same thing as others, and $150 for a couple brackets connected by a turnbuckle is already highway robbery; $400+ for a true track or glide pro is just ridiculous. If I weren't so far from shop to work in I'd try fabricating something myself... I noticed "wobble" early on in some longer sweeping curves and have lived with it so far but I refuse to go another season this way--thinking I'll order the alloy art and give it a try. Maybe smooth rider @$160 could be another option...?
To me this looks like a good one, you could easily weld some steel between the bolt spacer/sleeves, and essentially have the True Track. imo.
Cost is a lot less too.
To me this looks like a good one, you could easily weld some steel between the bolt spacer/sleeves, and essentially have the True Track. imo.
Cost is a lot less too.
It's undeniably cheap, but also a dead copy of the True-Track. Their description is amusing and shows a lack of knowledge - after all the rubber mounts were introduced in 1980, not 1993! Also as mentioned at the outset in this thread, the problems persist with later models too.
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