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If true track wants to sell their product at 30% discount, I wish they'd just price it accordingly and be done--I'm sick of trying to time my purchases to the whims of marketing suits. That said, I see alloy art pulled the same BS w/black Friday and all that nonsense, but at least they're starting at around 1/3 the cost.
The alloy art brackets do seem far less robust, but if they do the job I can't see how that'll make a difference. And if, as previously stated, Eric Buell came up with the design, then all these vendors are just copying the concept if not the specifics.
I just ordered the alloy art product and will report back once I have a chance to really get out and ride and see if I can tell a difference, which unfortunately is likely to be several months out. If it doesn't seem to work for me I will attempt to hatchet job something together myself--not like any super precise engineering is required. I'm afraid opening a box with two brackets and a turnbuckle for which I paid $400 is likely to give me an acute case of buyers' remorse regardless of the result, but results may vary for the rest of you doctors and lawyers.
If true track wants to sell their product at 30% discount, I wish they'd just price it accordingly and be done--I'm sick of trying to time my purchases to the whims of marketing suits. That said, I see alloy art pulled the same BS w/black Friday and all that nonsense, but at least they're starting at around 1/3 the cost.
The alloy art brackets do seem far less robust, but if they do the job I can't see how that'll make a difference. And if, as previously stated, Eric Buell came up with the design, then all these vendors are just copying the concept if not the specifics.
I just ordered the alloy art product and will report back once I have a chance to really get out and ride and see if I can tell a difference, which unfortunately is likely to be several months out. If it doesn't seem to work for me I will attempt to hatchet job something together myself--not like any super precise engineering is required. I'm afraid opening a box with two brackets and a turnbuckle for which I paid $400 is likely to give me an acute case of buyers' remorse regardless of the result, but results may vary for the rest of you doctors and lawyers.
Many of the current cheap products have not been around long, whereas True-Track was the first and has been around a very long time. They work! I've enjoyed the benefit of mine since before most of the optional brands were thought of.
I believe bagger wobble is real. However one of the first things I would look at updating knowing what I do now is SUSPENSION!
Just my opinion.
The suspension products available to us today are a dramatic improvement over what was available just a couple of years ago. They won't solve the wobble problem, but will undeniably provide greatly improved ride and handling. I now have Ohlins front and rear on my Glide.
The suspension products available to us today are a dramatic improvement over what was available just a couple of years ago. They won't solve the wobble problem, but will undeniably provide greatly improved ride and handling. I now have Ohlins front and rear on my Glide.
Oh, a good shock can help both front and rear. You can get a pogo action that will make the bike dance. Even the best stiffener won't work without good shocks.
Last edited by Max Headflow; Jan 6, 2018 at 12:18 PM.
Reason: won't
You guys are spot on, fixing the side to side movement of the swing arm relative to the engine will not cure issues caused by steering head, fork springing/damping, tyre, wheel bearing and alignment issues.
The interesting thing about this thread (IMO) is that it focuses on that movement and how to stop it. All seem to agree that a good brace will stop it. Also seems that changing (renewing those beyond useful life or “upgrading”) the bushings/mounts along with proper set up is a cure. Me thinks doing both makes sense but is only me and is not cheap.
As none of us can buy examples of each solution and compare empirically how they contribute we are stuck with the few press reviews or feedback from happy owners in forums. It seems that thorough google searching provides not one thread that says “I bought product x and it made my bike wobble”. There are some reports about increased vibration from non OEM mounts and pivot bushings but most seem to have been been cured with proper setup.
Reading the last posts I have a question: It looks like the Alloy Art product is available only for 2009 and later bikes and Tru Track has a solution for all rubber mounted models. It does look as if the Alloy Art mounted the way it does to the starter motor mounts and frame will do an OK job of allowing up and down but not side to side movement. This assumes the bolt into the frame and the material it is made from are sufficiently robust (starter motor mount must be stronger and safer than the transmission cover bolting method of the TT)
You guys are spot on, fixing the side to side movement of the swing arm relative to the engine will not cure issues caused by steering head, fork springing/damping, tyre, wheel bearing and alignment issues.
The interesting thing about this thread (IMO) is that it focuses on that movement and how to stop it. All seem to agree that a good brace will stop it. Also seems that changing (renewing those beyond useful life or upgrading) the bushings/mounts along with proper set up is a cure. Me thinks doing both makes sense but is only me and is not cheap.
As none of us can buy examples of each solution and compare empirically how they contribute we are stuck with the few press reviews or feedback from happy owners in forums. It seems that thorough google searching provides not one thread that says I bought product x and it made my bike wobble. There are some reports about increased vibration from non OEM mounts and pivot bushings but most seem to have been been cured with proper setup.
Reading the last posts I have a question: It looks like the Alloy Art product is available only for 2009 and later bikes and Tru Track has a solution for all rubber mounted models. It does look as if the Alloy Art mounted the way it does to the starter motor mounts and frame will do an OK job of allowing up and down but not side to side movement. This assumes the bolt into the frame and the material it is made from are sufficiently robust (starter motor mount must be stronger and safer than the transmission cover bolting method of the TT)
I've had Ohlins on the back of my king for 5+ years now; they are very nice but I don't recall much if any change to wobble. Have works performance cartridges in the front--Ohlins were a long way from harley front fork solution at that point.
I suspect tire wear may be a factor given poor road surfaces seem to exacerbate the issue more of late.
Seems to me that with the exception of the smooth rider these stabilizer products all function in fundamentally the same fashion with turnbuckle/pivots arranged to try and limit lateral motion. I am concerned about vibration as well, but sounds like that issue has cropped up for all...
I have a 18 ultra limited with a 200/55/18 metzler on rear, got bike built for me vs spending 50k on a cvo. When I go faster than 90 I get a wobble on the back. It happens on straightaways. I don't know if I should change the rear back to stock 180 or change my suspension. Any recommendations?
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