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These torque cones are on ebay all the time. You put them in your exhaust at the head attach point and supposedly they give your exhaust velocity. What is everyones opinion?
Ihave no data to support my opinion, but I think if you were to run a set of shortlarge dia. straight pipes, they would help. I have a set that I run with v&h starightshots ( no baffle) and the bikes runs fine.I have never tried the v&h without them. Sorry, Maybe someone with Dyno sheets will chime in.
These torque cones are on ebay all the time. You put them in your exhaust at the head attach point and supposedly they give your exhaust velocity. What is everyones opinion?
I have no experiance with these devices but with any suchproduct that I consider it has to pass this test. If it is good, why doesn't the manufacturer use them and why do I not see manyhappy users flashing their before/after dyno sheets all over the forums? Having been in the car dyno tuning business for the past manyyears, I could write a book on all the gadgets I've seen come and go, then get sued. When you want to build low end torque, think small diameter, long intake/exhaust runnersformore low RPM port velocity, just the opposite for high RPM HP, and a cam to match each application.
I used themwhen I was running true dual Rineharts. After installing a set of S&S 510G camsI had a real bad Dip at about 2500RPM that I couldn't tune out. So I tried the Torque cones and Bingo all was good. You could see alittle dip on the dyno sheet but by the seat of the pants you couldn't fell it. The cones worked for me...
helps with what they call reversion, where on drag pipes or true duals the cly pulls some of the spent exhaust back into the cly, dirtying up the next charge. causes a little back presure on the exhaust helping to keep it from entering the cly on the down stroke as it pulls in a fresh charge of gas and air. For the money you can't go wrong if you run Drags or true duals. Ran them on my Shovel back in the 80's all the time helped with the 2" drag pipes I used to run. Not going give you a lot of HP but it will help, sort of a poor man's step down header.
Power cones as they were refered to back in the 80's were called anti reversonary,(ain't sure of the spelling) but,they were good for maintaining backpressure in drag pipes and open slash cut pipes they gave a noticable bump in the low end to mid range and usually eliminated backfiring upon deceleration. now adays,"they call them power cones". They worked well on my 88 80" and my 99 80" running slash pipes that were gutted somewhat. Haven't used them since 2002 . The type I liked were A/R power cones
Mark H. Otto NC
Had drag pipes/no baffles on my wideglide. Ran like crap, lousy gas mileage and almost fouled plugs. Dropped the cones in and it started much easier, ran better and shot my mileage up so much that I thought the guage was busted. Serious! Even the spark plugs looked perfect. Now this is most likely an extreme example, but if you run any type of open pipe, these things probably will do more good than bad.
The power cones are made for drag pipes with out baffles, they keep the engine from sucking spent exhaust back into the cylinder. I puta set of drags on my SuperGlide and as soon as I put the pipes on I lost all low end power, the bike couldnt get out of its own way. I got a set ofpower conesand the power went up some but not enough to justify keeping the drag pipes on. I went with a set of V&H Shortshots. Got the power back and then some extra. Gas mileage went up too. A bike with drag pipes makes its power at the upper end, which unless your drag racing ( hence the name drag pipes) or riding at 100mph all day is not where mostriders need power. Your average rider needs low to mid range power for cruising.
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