Reason for any concern?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,816
Likes: 2
From: New Hampshire
Reason for any concern?
I usually disdain from asking questions like this but maybe because I'm a month out from rotating back to the States this question has popped back into my mind.
Last fall I added a Ness Big Sucker..install went fine, the Breather bolts appeared to be a little larger than the stock ones but had no issue going in. Because I did not have all the components for my Stage One in place and would not be having them until I returned from my deployment I decided to go back to the stock air box for the time being.
When I removed the breather bolts I noticed that on the threads of the bolts that there were some metal shavings on them. I didn't think too much about it....when i reinstalled the oem bolts they didn't go in as smoothly as in I couldn't finger tighten them all the way. The went in straight and not crooked. I just needed to use the torque wrench to turn them more and seat them.
Now I guess my question is, by using the Ness bolts and taking them out and then putting the oem bolts back in have I jacked the threads up? Going back to the shavings and having the oem bolts going back in a second time I'm wondering if I've hosed something up.
I do plan on put the SE Kit on when I get back and do the Stage 1 correctly, just can't keep from wondering if I've hacked the threads or done any kind of damage.
Working 18 hour days the mind starts to wander lol
Last fall I added a Ness Big Sucker..install went fine, the Breather bolts appeared to be a little larger than the stock ones but had no issue going in. Because I did not have all the components for my Stage One in place and would not be having them until I returned from my deployment I decided to go back to the stock air box for the time being.
When I removed the breather bolts I noticed that on the threads of the bolts that there were some metal shavings on them. I didn't think too much about it....when i reinstalled the oem bolts they didn't go in as smoothly as in I couldn't finger tighten them all the way. The went in straight and not crooked. I just needed to use the torque wrench to turn them more and seat them.
Now I guess my question is, by using the Ness bolts and taking them out and then putting the oem bolts back in have I jacked the threads up? Going back to the shavings and having the oem bolts going back in a second time I'm wondering if I've hosed something up.
I do plan on put the SE Kit on when I get back and do the Stage 1 correctly, just can't keep from wondering if I've hacked the threads or done any kind of damage.
Working 18 hour days the mind starts to wander lol
Last edited by Port Dawg; Aug 6, 2012 at 09:54 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
steel into aluminum will cut if there are machining or install inconsistencies.
this is an area where there is little stress, little load on the bolts, and they are used to brace the outside of the throttle body and support the air cleaner. make sure that any required spacers or washers are correct
make sure that the bolts are not cross threaded ( put the bolt to the hole and turn counter-clockwise...when you hear/feel a "click", that means the threads are lined up. and can not turn clockwise)
most applications require an anti seize or a thread locker
pay attention to torque figures ( don't be the "inch pounds? I thought it was ft lbs..." Guy)
the ness is an easier install than the S/E ( the throttle body brace stays in place) and I think a better unit. and the stock football cover hides the plastic throttle body and wiring and plug which is all ugly.
mike
this is an area where there is little stress, little load on the bolts, and they are used to brace the outside of the throttle body and support the air cleaner. make sure that any required spacers or washers are correct
make sure that the bolts are not cross threaded ( put the bolt to the hole and turn counter-clockwise...when you hear/feel a "click", that means the threads are lined up. and can not turn clockwise)
most applications require an anti seize or a thread locker
pay attention to torque figures ( don't be the "inch pounds? I thought it was ft lbs..." Guy)
the ness is an easier install than the S/E ( the throttle body brace stays in place) and I think a better unit. and the stock football cover hides the plastic throttle body and wiring and plug which is all ugly.
mike
Got to be careful with these, they will strip easily.
Torque Value is 120-144 inch-lbs (NOT ft-lbs)
Torque Value is 120-144 inch-lbs (NOT ft-lbs)
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DKCustomProducts.com
DKCustomProducts.com
If the Ness bolts were chromed, sometimes the chrome on the threads comes off and stays in the hole. Remove the stock bolts & providing there is not a cross threaded issue, use an oiled cotton swab & remove as much metal shavings as possible. It normally takes several attemps to get the threads clean. Dont blow the hole out with compressed air, the passage goes directly into the head.... no sense taking a chance.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
....and you still may get oil spray on your saddlebags. I had to crank mine down pretty tight to get them to seal. I cannot see how you can strip them since they bottom out on the cylinder bracket which allows the bolts to go in just so far.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
Heat loosens the locktite and those heads do get mighty hot....
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