First of all, thanks for all the knowledge I've gained from this forum. Some of you definitely know your sh*t.

Quite a story to tell here guys:

In June, I had a sputtering and poor idling bike - a 2007 Electra Glide Police with Arlen Ness Big Sucker, Samson slip-ons, V&H FuelPak - as I bought it last September.

Error code P0108 - MAP sensor high.
Laconia Harley replaced MAP sensor, bike ran well for about 1000 miles until I was in the middle of a 1600 mile weekend trip to Ohio.
ERROR CODE P0374 – CKP Sensor Synch Error

Purchased crank position sensor and replaced. Bike ran well for about 20 miles, and AGAIN gave me ERROR CODE P0108. AGAIN?

Rode the bike home, 800 miles, ran like crap - cruising steady at about 2500 rpms and bike cuts out. While hammering on the throttle, seems to run fine. Idles like crap.
ONLY WHEN BIKE WARMS UP.

Brought it to dealership, they couldn't get it to duplicate error - charged me $50.

Still having same issue, run the bike anywhere from 10-20 miles and it begins.

Called dealership for another appointment - horrible-attitude-service-gestapo-lady said they would suggest that I unplug fuelpak and see if the bike throws same error code to eliminate fuelpak being the issue. If I unplug the tuner, that's clearly going to make my bike run like crap, so what's the deal?

I am bringing the bike in Thursday if I can't come to a conclusion. I have Harley ESP coverage till September, which has been useless so far.

ANY suggestions??

THANK YOU ENDLESS AMOUNTS

 

A sensor being triggered does NOT always require replacement of the sensor.
The sensor informs you that an error has occurred. It would seem that the mechanic might have taken the quick way out of replacing stuff with-out finding out why it triggered.
*kinda like replacing an oil level sensor when you get a low oil light instead of adding oil and checking for a leak.
1- The codes can be read by you and erased by you with no tools, just do a search or another member will probably post for you.
2-A loose wire, chaffed wire or a bad connection at the crank position sensor could give intermittent loss of ignition and a stumble, garbage in the gas tank like the sealer sometimes flakes off and messes with fuel delivery into pump. How are the wires behind the big sucker ? anything loose? what about the V & H ? is it all tight and clean? how are the battery cables at both ends of + and -?
I am leaning towards a loose wire/connection..

 

"Rode the bike home, 800 miles, ran like crap - cruising steady at about 2500 rpms and bike cuts out. While hammering on the throttle, seems to run fine. Idles like crap.
ONLY WHEN BIKE WARMS UP."
Do not understand: is bike OK when hot? Is bike OK when cold? Is bike OK at idle when hot or cold? Is bike OK at open throttle when hot or cold?
Reason: Most fuel adders only work over idle RPM and not at start -up.

 

Thanks for the reply!

Bike runs excellent when cold -
begins to run worse the warmer it gets - usually not noticeable until about mile 15.

USUALLY idles poorly when hot, and all other symptoms seem to also only take place when hot. Bike seems to be fine accelerating hot and cold. I have done some brief checking of wires, tuner seems to be tight and clean, I've greased many of the connections(dielectric grease), but maybe I need to dig in a little deeper, the dealership doesn't seem to want to.

 

I don't know if this would pertain to your situation, but check out the IAC module (Idle Air Control) it's around $50. The dealer couldn't figure out how to fix my '06 when it started to stall when slowing to stop when warmed up. I relaced the IAC and all was good after that....

 

My money is on the IAC as well. I had a discussion with the fuel motto folks about a performance issue and they pointed out that there were IAC problems on 07 bikes (which is what I have also). In my case, I was able to re-calibrate the IAC since my Tmax supports recalibration.

 

Ive been having stall problems for last 10 months bike was fine when i trailered it to tenn in oct but when trailering to biketoberfest I got caught in that huge tropical storm and drove 3-4 hours until georgia and packed in driving for the night. next day while going to rossmeyers it stalls. figured i let clutcth out. it keeps stalling whole time on vac, ive changed plugs and wires didnt solve any thing. i have no engine codes at all. some days its ok other days it stalls several times. Ive tried different idle settings from 1000 to 1200 and it is almost like you turned key off for a split second or the throttle plate slams shut for a second.. most of the time i hear it and if i open the throttle i catch it and it revs up and then is ok.
how much does an iac cost and does it have to be calibrated, and if it does what do i need digital tech? i have a race tuner
when the iac acts up will it throw codes.

 

My buddy had the same problem to the T on his 04 night train,throttle body shaft for plate broke in half,take the throttle position sensor out then check to see if the shaft comes off if so then it needs a new body. these are his words. I am not a mechanic lol maybe it makes sense to you. good luck
mike

 

A few of us have had TPS issues also. Cheep and easy sensor to throw at it. Let us know what you find.

 

Well gentlemen,
Thanks for all of your input - I THINK I solved the issue.

While diving into the bike to check these possible issues, it came to my attention that one of the mounting bolts for my arlen ness big sucker was a little less than finger tight, therefore probably creating a vacuum leak...... ugh.

Rode the bike 40 miles last night, and 15 miles this morning with no issues. Hopefully it's not just a case of my bike deciding to run fine the day its supposed to go to the shop.

Thoughts?

I DO know that it's time for some blue LocTite! ....idiot.