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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #11  
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jamala00
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
you could always add your location to your profile

Mike
Neenah, WI... But also added it to my profile...
 
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #12  
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Really simple to do. Should be about 1/8" + play when motor is cold.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #13  
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46u
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I would take all the slack out of the cable and readjust it on the clutch under the derby cover then adjust the cable. I have all most 90K on mine and it is still the stock clutch.

What will help a clutch last much longer is when sitting at a red light put it neutral and have the clutch engaged. When you set at a light and have it in gear with the clutch pulled in all you are doing is putting wear on the plates.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 10:50 PM
  #14  
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motorlessons
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Heck, a clutch adjustment is a great place to start doing your own maintenance. Here's how:

First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ˝” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2 Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

3) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

4) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

5) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

6) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ˝ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ž turn. ˝ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

7) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

8) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket (O ring) is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.

9) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris

Denver, CO

www.youtube.com/conedown
 
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 01:17 PM
  #15  
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FXRS84 Low
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Default Clutch lever

Little by little you can do things yourself. Factory Service Manual and check out the videos on the web or the Fix My Hog DVD series made to help riders new to wrenching. Either way it's best to know the basics because you might be in the middle of nowhere and have to do some adjustments.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 03:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
if only there was an adjuster on the cable to take up slack....


look under that rubber boot


cables stretch over time


you may want to ascertain that the clutch mechanism is properly adjusted, then do the cable - that is what I would do for a customer


Mike
You mean like this Mike:




Barnett makes them.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 03:25 PM
  #17  
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Flinter
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Youtube is full of videos on how to do this. Read the manual, watch a few videos and have at it.
 
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