Clutch Lever
What will help a clutch last much longer is when sitting at a red light put it neutral and have the clutch engaged. When you set at a light and have it in gear with the clutch pulled in all you are doing is putting wear on the plates.
First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.
1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ˝” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.
2 Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.
3) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.
4) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.
5) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!
6) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ˝ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ž turn. ˝ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.
7) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.
8) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket (O ring) is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50-70 inch pounds of torque.
9) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.
Harris
Denver, CO
www.youtube.com/conedown


Barnett makes them.



