What is the easiest way to adjust the spot lights.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,357
Likes: 8
From: Pa
What is the easiest way to adjust the spot lights.
I had to adjust one and it was a pain. I had to remove the blinker with these 2 little screws that were hard to get to. Then up in the spot light was a nut that had the power wire going through. There was no other way i saw but to cut the wire loosen the nut and then solder the wire back together. But its still to high. Both of my spots are as high as my highbeam. So when i am running them with the headlight the spots blind you. I would like to adjust both of them but want an easier way. I wish the bottom of the bracket would swing in a little which would lower both lights. Maybe i should just dremel the slot a little more to swing them down. The pic is just a reference in case you dont know what i am talking about.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
um, yeah somewhere I have a socket that I cut a slot in for the wire to run through when loosening the spot nuts.
once you do that it's easy
mike
once you do that it's easy
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Aug 30, 2012 at 06:04 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 12,653
Likes: 18
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
One member actually suggested to me to grab the spot in one hand, the turn signal in the other, and bend the bracket by forcing them to where I wanted. One still points a high, needless to say. I get good light on the road, so not worried about that one being just a little high. I think they're done that way on purpose from the factory as all of them I see are like that. At least while they're still new.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
ah jeez 1/2", 9/16" can't remember.
but that's the idea.
take a look at your wire fix- soldered joints do not hold up well on motorcycles, the strands break right where the tinning ends at the insulation--- not next week, but someday and it is a pain when it does.
That is why manufacturers use crimped connectors
mike
but that's the idea.
take a look at your wire fix- soldered joints do not hold up well on motorcycles, the strands break right where the tinning ends at the insulation--- not next week, but someday and it is a pain when it does.
That is why manufacturers use crimped connectors
mike
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, AL
It's a 9/16" deep well that is cut out on the side. Snap-on makes one, but it's very pricy. I got a basic one from Advance Auto and cut it out myself. Clamped in a vice and used a pneumatic cut-off wheel to make it. Works well and no other way to adjust without cutting the wire. With the tool, you can adjust, turn them on, check alignment and repeat as necessary.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 7
From: Rochester N.Y.
There really isn't an easy way , but this works pretty well.
Buy a socket , 9/16" 6 point and slot it yourself.
I got this one at a garage sale for $.10 .
It happened to be a 1/4" drive , but it doesn't matter.
I have heard , that you can just twist the directional off a ways and adjust the passing beam and just put the directional back , if the nut goes with the directional.
Haven't tried that one.
Yeah , it's a pain , but worth it when you're done.
Actually , there is quite a bit of adjustment if you lossen the nut , bring the passing beam as far forward as you can and start low , then work up as you go.
Mine were really high when new.
Mick
Buy a socket , 9/16" 6 point and slot it yourself.
I got this one at a garage sale for $.10 .
It happened to be a 1/4" drive , but it doesn't matter.
I have heard , that you can just twist the directional off a ways and adjust the passing beam and just put the directional back , if the nut goes with the directional.
Haven't tried that one.
Yeah , it's a pain , but worth it when you're done.
Actually , there is quite a bit of adjustment if you lossen the nut , bring the passing beam as far forward as you can and start low , then work up as you go.
Mine were really high when new.
Mick
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,692
Likes: 22
From: Denham Springs, La
I made a slotted socket for mine. It worked really good. After I jacked with the alignment for way too long, I tightened it back up. Then I grabbed the spotlight with one hand and the turn signal with the other as previously posted and adjusted it perfectly in about 30 seconds. Did the other one and haven't worried about it since.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,453
Likes: 2,839
From: Oklahoma
For small adjustments you can bend the 2 little legs the bulb is mounted on using needle nose pliers. Raising the bulb lowers the beam. The draw-back with this technique is that if you replace a bulb on the road, the new one will be back at the old, basic setting.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 609
Likes: 14
From: Mount Airy, MD
I bought the proper socket. That's the easiest way, not the cheapest. Taking the two allen head screws out is a PITA.
It would be so easy to build this setup for easy adjustment but instead they are built as a money making machine for someone but it the dealer, snap-on for the proper socket, or whoever else's tools you buy to make your own solution.
Frankly there is one word for whoever engineered this setup: Idiot!
It would be so easy to build this setup for easy adjustment but instead they are built as a money making machine for someone but it the dealer, snap-on for the proper socket, or whoever else's tools you buy to make your own solution.
Frankly there is one word for whoever engineered this setup: Idiot!