Fork oil dripping down lower
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
it'll be fine to ride.
the seal is gone, and this would be the time to have them serviced.
the ride may be crappy, and don't push it as the suspension may be compromised.
aside from heat/age rubber degradation, the seal killer is dirt on the fork tubes working up and down through the seal as the forks move.
rubber gaiters like on British bikes help ( and easy on the 35/39mm front end) our touring bikes have the cowbells to deflect dirt , but it does settle up in there
Mike
the seal is gone, and this would be the time to have them serviced.
the ride may be crappy, and don't push it as the suspension may be compromised.
aside from heat/age rubber degradation, the seal killer is dirt on the fork tubes working up and down through the seal as the forks move.
rubber gaiters like on British bikes help ( and easy on the 35/39mm front end) our touring bikes have the cowbells to deflect dirt , but it does settle up in there
Mike
I agree with mkguitar & will add dont add more air that only forces the oil out quicker. But, it will only get worse in time. You can tie an bandana around the upper leg to catch the oil leak, at least it reduces the mess getting blown back. Replace both seals at the same time. If you have the money, its a good time to go to better springs like Progressives.
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: AR
Thanks guys. I haven't added anymore air but was hoping it was ok to ride for a bit so I can order the parts and do it myself. I was also wanting to get some lower springs the back already had 10.5's on it, so this might be a good time to lower the front anyway.
Does anyone know if a 39mm vs. 41mm makes a differance when ordering the progressive drop in lowering kit? Or fork rebuild kit? I had to use a 39mm fork end cap when mine fell off and the guy I bought it from acted like it should have been a 41mm.
Does anyone know if a 39mm vs. 41mm makes a differance when ordering the progressive drop in lowering kit? Or fork rebuild kit? I had to use a 39mm fork end cap when mine fell off and the guy I bought it from acted like it should have been a 41mm.
Last edited by 1fast99; Sep 10, 2012 at 02:46 PM.
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From: Pacific Northwest
Just a note: be sure the oil is coming from the fork leg and not from a freshly lubed steering neck that is bleeding separated grease. You can usually see grunge on the lower triple clamp if it's steering head.
If it's the fork seal you might as well do both legs and the bushings as well (as previously recommended). 15 wt. Bel Ray worked great on my '95 EGC with 15 lb. of air. Front dive all but disappeared.
If it's the fork seal you might as well do both legs and the bushings as well (as previously recommended). 15 wt. Bel Ray worked great on my '95 EGC with 15 lb. of air. Front dive all but disappeared.
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From:
just be careful that its not getting on the front tire I thought they were 41 since 1983
Last edited by dyna07custom; Sep 10, 2012 at 02:59 PM.
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Road Warrior
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On the 99 it can also come from a simple o-ring at the air fitting in the top of the " CAP, UPPER BRACKET" (parts numbered 23 and 15 in the link).
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....-STEERING-STEM
Or the o-ring here in this link (part number 4)
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....HOCK-ABSORBERS
I would suggest you pull the ignition switch and the plastic panel with the switches in it and take a look at the top of the fork. That's where mine was actually leaking from.
That said, I rebuilt mine anyway at 72K this spring and went with the SE Heavy fork oil; it was like night and day. I picked up the tools I needed from George's Garage with the exception of the tool used to hold the fork tube in a bench vise; I used a section of an old triple tree a friend loaned to me. It went pretty easily all in all.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....-STEERING-STEM
Or the o-ring here in this link (part number 4)
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....HOCK-ABSORBERS
I would suggest you pull the ignition switch and the plastic panel with the switches in it and take a look at the top of the fork. That's where mine was actually leaking from.
That said, I rebuilt mine anyway at 72K this spring and went with the SE Heavy fork oil; it was like night and day. I picked up the tools I needed from George's Garage with the exception of the tool used to hold the fork tube in a bench vise; I used a section of an old triple tree a friend loaned to me. It went pretty easily all in all.
Last edited by jamesw; Sep 10, 2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Road Warrior
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Stock would be 41mm. What "end cap" are you referring to? Give me the item number in the diagram in the link above.
I would be hesitant to lower the front; I've seen lots of bikes with punched fender tops from contact under compression.
Did you get a 39mm fork tube cap without air fittings? Did you install 39mm caps in error, and that's the cause of the leak?
I would be hesitant to lower the front; I've seen lots of bikes with punched fender tops from contact under compression.
Did you get a 39mm fork tube cap without air fittings? Did you install 39mm caps in error, and that's the cause of the leak?
Last edited by jamesw; Sep 10, 2012 at 10:13 PM.