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not realy idexing the plug. Just trying to see where the cold side is when it is tight in the hole. Indexing is having the electrode where you want it when it is tight (many arguments on this one). Knowing where the cold / oil side is can help diagnose what is causing it.
not realy idexing the plug. Just trying to see where the cold side is when it is tight in the hole. Indexing is having the electrode where you want it when it is tight (many arguments on this one). Knowing where the cold / oil side is can help diagnose what is causing it.
Ok thanks I will mark the plug and pull it and see where she cold at.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by N2STUFF
Ok thanks I will mark the plug and pull it and see where she cold at.
For a matter of accuracy, ride the bike under load then pull the clutch and use the kill switch to avoid feeding the engine with idling A/F mixture. Consider a 15 minutes ride before doing the test. Use clean spark plugs to start and don't over-tighten them because you need to take them out immediately after you stop. Put anti-seize or moly grease on the threads and engage the plugs with your fingers to re-install. When the engine is hot there is more play on the thread.
You can pull the plugs out of a hot motor, but be very careful putting them back in. Motor is aluminum plugs are not. Different rates of expansion and contraction, do NOT cross thread.
Best off to bypass this test. Best to find a reputable tuner as there is little you can realistically do to adjust for any deficiencies.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by jcb1975@yahoo.com
You can pull the plugs out of a hot motor, but be very careful putting them back in. Motor is aluminum plugs are not. Different rates of expansion and contraction, do NOT cross thread.
Best off to bypass this test. Best to find a reputable tuner as there is little you can realistically do to adjust for any deficiencies.
The OP mentioned oil contamination.
There are 2 sources:
- Intake valve guide = possible recognition by plug orientation
- Scraper ring = coloration would be diffused on the ceramic
An exhaust valve guide leak will not affect the combustion chamber.
The OP mentioned oil contamination.
There are 2 sources:
- Intake valve guide = possible recognition by plug orientation
- Scraper ring = coloration would be diffused on the ceramic
An exhaust valve guide leak will not affect the combustion chamber.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by mrfikser
or a blown head gasket....
In this case if you can't see traces of oil around the head gaskets you will get an oil reflux at the vents that will be recycled at the level of the A/C.
There will be a serious loss of power, overheating and funny new smell. (been there )
In this case if you can't see traces of oil around the head gaskets you will get an oil reflux at the vents that will be recycled at the level of the A/C.
There will be a serious loss of power, overheating and funny new smell. (been there )
Not necessarily...a small head gasket leak between the cylinder and the oil jacket could mostly suck oil in with not so much pressure blowing into the crankcase as to cause the engine to puke oil into the air cleaner..
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by mrfikser
Not necessarily...a small head gasket leak between the cylinder and the oil jacket could mostly suck oil in with not so much pressure blowing into the crankcase as to cause the engine to puke oil into the air cleaner..
If the OP could post a picture of his infamous plug, taken in the shade for more accuracy we could perhaps help him
Today you can buy a small endoscope for less than $50, a really nice helper in such a case.
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