Starting problems with Road King
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Stage IV
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Forestville
Starting problems with Road King
I have a 2001 RK Classic I bought a few months ago. It has 8900 miles. The other day I was on a mission (PGR) which I rode approximately 25 minutes to get to. Once there, the bike sat for an hour and then I started it up and moved it in line. A half hour later I went to start it and nothing. No starter, lights or horn. No power at all. I got a jump and it started right up and I rode it back home. I tested the battery and it tested very good and the bike started right up. Now I am worried about going any place with it for fear of getting stranded. Any ideas?
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
I'd suggest removing the battery. ( disconnect - cable first)
charge overnight or 2 on a real battery charger at 5 to 10 amp charge rate ( if the higher, turn off and let rest/cool for about 30 minutes every couple of hours).
Then take it to autozone and load test it.
while at it clean both ends of the battery cables, and look for any nicks in the insulation or any powder coming out of the insulation- if so, replace.
the end result will be known good cables, connections and battery condition.
( connect + cable first...doing it this way avoids any sparking if your wrench hits the frame)
2.) look at replacing the main breaker under the seat in front of the battery- they get weak over time and the proximity to the rear header and the battery ( which can get hot) can cause it to trip...it resets when it cools.
IF you have a duff battery out on the road, try to figure out the cause. if the battery has failed, it can stress the charging system to the point of failure ( $$$).
so you get a jump, ride along and the charging system dies as a result.
Mike
charge overnight or 2 on a real battery charger at 5 to 10 amp charge rate ( if the higher, turn off and let rest/cool for about 30 minutes every couple of hours).
Then take it to autozone and load test it.
while at it clean both ends of the battery cables, and look for any nicks in the insulation or any powder coming out of the insulation- if so, replace.
the end result will be known good cables, connections and battery condition.
( connect + cable first...doing it this way avoids any sparking if your wrench hits the frame)
2.) look at replacing the main breaker under the seat in front of the battery- they get weak over time and the proximity to the rear header and the battery ( which can get hot) can cause it to trip...it resets when it cools.
IF you have a duff battery out on the road, try to figure out the cause. if the battery has failed, it can stress the charging system to the point of failure ( $$$).
so you get a jump, ride along and the charging system dies as a result.
Mike
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Stage IV
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Forestville
We did a load test on the battery (my son has a battery tester) and it tested at 300 cranking amps after I rode it home (25 minutes). A guy at work said to look at the starter switch but I am not sure how to test it.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
if you lost all power up front it wouldn't be only the starter switch.
to test the starting circuit you should have power to the solenoid ( green wire) when the starter button is pushed.
If yes, that means that the breaker/ign. switch/ run&stop switch/ start pushbutton/ starter relay and all associated wiring is good.
IF extra high watt lighting is used up front, that can burn the contacts in the ign. switch- sometimes a wiggle of the switch will restore power. and if that happens you have un-covered a fault
mike
to test the starting circuit you should have power to the solenoid ( green wire) when the starter button is pushed.
If yes, that means that the breaker/ign. switch/ run&stop switch/ start pushbutton/ starter relay and all associated wiring is good.
IF extra high watt lighting is used up front, that can burn the contacts in the ign. switch- sometimes a wiggle of the switch will restore power. and if that happens you have un-covered a fault
mike
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Stage IV
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Forestville
Just went to start it, lights turned on, starter turned and then nothing. Pulled battery as suggested and it was dead when I put it on the charger. Will have it checked at Auto Zone tomorrow. The battery is 5 years old and I have no idea how they stored it. I keep my bikes in a heated basement with the batteries on trickle chargers. If the battery is ok, I will start looking for something shorting and draining the battery.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
once a battery is discharged, it will only charge up to about 50% of previous capacity.
...charge it, test it again- and kick it while being load tested- it could have an open cell ( bad connection) internally
remember a sick battery can blow your charging system $$$
many riders are using deka agm batteries, if you need to shop
you may have a drain on your battery when sitting...could be a bad diode in the voltage regulator or one of the circuits
testing with am ammeter will indicate if there is a drain
mike
...charge it, test it again- and kick it while being load tested- it could have an open cell ( bad connection) internally
remember a sick battery can blow your charging system $$$
many riders are using deka agm batteries, if you need to shop
you may have a drain on your battery when sitting...could be a bad diode in the voltage regulator or one of the circuits
testing with am ammeter will indicate if there is a drain
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Oct 23, 2012 at 07:03 PM.
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