2010 96" Internals vs. 2011+ 96"/103" Internals
Yep, already knew that and knew about the frame too.
I am being told to expect about 100hp/105ft-lbs on the 106" with cams, but, without headwork & to expect 110-120hp/115-125ft-lbs from one of the builders and 120hp/120 ft-lbs from the other each with headwork. All of these will be with a TTS and of course will depend on exhaust choice. I don't care for 2-1's so I will probably lose some of that potential power with 2-1-2's or true duals.
I am being told to expect about 100hp/105ft-lbs on the 106" with cams, but, without headwork & to expect 110-120hp/115-125ft-lbs from one of the builders and 120hp/120 ft-lbs from the other each with headwork. All of these will be with a TTS and of course will depend on exhaust choice. I don't care for 2-1's so I will probably lose some of that potential power with 2-1-2's or true duals.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 11
From: Mass/NH
This relates to how Gramps told me to never buy the first model year of anything! Makes sense...sometimes upgrades are planned for things before they ever leave the plant...I think once your past the first year and they have flushed their inventory you should be safer...
Supporter
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,419
Likes: 90
From: Vermont
No Bushings means the part is not rebuildable in most cases. The crank case will need to be split for instance to replace a connecting rod, when normally a new bushing would be all that was needed. Shorting the deck height will potentially make this a weak spot in the engine case. There are good points to some improvements as well, as others have mentioned. Personally, I'll add the better comp and an oil cooler and keep my 2010. I'm not one who likes to be a guinea pig for any first model year changes!
Last edited by Rickr01; Nov 20, 2012 at 09:57 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44,904
Likes: 29,884
From: PNW
09/10 - no lefty bearing. 11/later has it.
" " - old compensator. 11/later has SE comp
12/later Mexican lifters
Not sure of the other issues you mention. To me the lefty bearing is a big deal. I feel like I got the right year with my 11, but doesn't everybody?
Fwiw, on my 11 bike - no oil cooler on the original 96 and no oil cooler now with my 107 build. No heat related issues and internals have been examined. After 12k miles on the 107 all internals look like new. Synthetic 20/50 except for break-ins. Manual compression releases which I prefer. Crank went bad at 20k/18 months (same part on all years discussed) - having that welded etc. Stock clutch spring not sufficient for the 96/114 107 motor. Adding SE spring. We'll see if that holds. Next step better clutch plates.
Each year will have it's strengths and weaknesses. I don't think there is a best necessarily. You just have to choose which difference means more to you.
" " - old compensator. 11/later has SE comp
12/later Mexican lifters
Not sure of the other issues you mention. To me the lefty bearing is a big deal. I feel like I got the right year with my 11, but doesn't everybody?
Fwiw, on my 11 bike - no oil cooler on the original 96 and no oil cooler now with my 107 build. No heat related issues and internals have been examined. After 12k miles on the 107 all internals look like new. Synthetic 20/50 except for break-ins. Manual compression releases which I prefer. Crank went bad at 20k/18 months (same part on all years discussed) - having that welded etc. Stock clutch spring not sufficient for the 96/114 107 motor. Adding SE spring. We'll see if that holds. Next step better clutch plates.
Each year will have it's strengths and weaknesses. I don't think there is a best necessarily. You just have to choose which difference means more to you.
Last edited by nevada72; Nov 20, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 66,948
Likes: 4,573
From: TOAK western branch
Good to know.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 15
From: Cartersville, Georgia
Do you ride two-up at all? Two-up is 99% of my riding and that kind of torque will be put to good use for me.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 15
From: Cartersville, Georgia
This relates to how Gramps told me to never buy the first model year of anything! Makes sense...sometimes upgrades are planned for things before they ever leave the plant...I think once your past the first year and they have flushed their inventory you should be safer...
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 15
From: Cartersville, Georgia
No Bushings means the part is not rebuildable in most cases. The crank case will need to be split for instance to replace a connecting rod, when normally a new bushing would be all that was needed. Shorting the deck height will potentially make this a weak spot in the engine case. There are good points to some improvements as well, as others have mentioned. Personally, I'll add the better comp and an oil cooler and keep my 2010. I'm not one who likes to be a guinea pig for any first model year changes!
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Supporter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,133
Likes: 147
From: Grays Creek, NC
I love my 2010, but I have upgraded the clutch because stock wasn't holding just a cam upgrade. Upgraded the oil cooler and SE comp myself and with the deal I waited for and found paid less than $500 for both and both are pretty easy installs. For my S&S 106 install I bought a used set of 2011 heads with the ACR to be P&Ped to a stage II and the ACR cables that go to the fuse block were about $60 I believe(still waiting for the heads to be finished). After I install everything I'm still going to get a dyno tune and will need the dealer to activate the ACR's, so that will be additional as well.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 15
From: Cartersville, Georgia
I love my 2010, but I have upgraded the clutch because stock wasn't holding just a cam upgrade. Upgraded the oil cooler and SE comp myself and with the deal I waited for and found paid less than $500 for both and both are pretty easy installs. For my S&S 106 install I bought a used set of 2011 heads with the ACR to be P&Ped to a stage II and the ACR cables that go to the fuse block were about $60 I believe(still waiting for the heads to be finished). After I install everything I'm still going to get a dyno tune and will need the dealer to activate the ACR's, so that will be additional as well.