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Is there a better idea than Torx?

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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:44 AM
  #21  
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From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
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Metal threads need lubrication or a protective coating because either they oxidize/swell then grip or they bond metal to metal.

In the better world stainless steel threads are silver plated when assembled with steel or aluminum counter parts, plain steel threads get a phosphoric (H3PO4) treatment, aluminum threads are anodized then Teflon coated.

FYI: the standard galvanic corrosion protection applied to steel screws should resist 150 hours in saline environments but this does not integrate the temperature changes of our engine.

HD parts are simply thoroughly degreased prior to assembly so all screws not assembled with Loctite are bound to grip.
As a remedy I apply Molykote grease everywhere a thread sealant is not needed.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 06:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dukdog
It is increasingly difficult to get a good bite with the Torx 27 bit.
Torx bits wear out also!
I have had many do this.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 07:52 AM
  #23  
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I switch to Allen head screws as the Torx get loose. Many chrome replacement screws are available at my local stealer, believe it or not, and at reasonable prices compared to the local Tru Value hardware store.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 08:02 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Scorpion07
Hardware store prob carries hex in stainless or even chrome.
I've never had problems with torx. Had em apart at least 15 times to boot. Never a problem.
Me too, are you the only one working on your bike or has your dealership been using the wrong bit on them? Either way, change em to something else, lots of options out there.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 08:34 AM
  #25  
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Usually it's a crappy torx bit that causes this not the bolt it's self.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:33 AM
  #26  
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I went to Allen's from Lowes.
Part of the problem is the bits. Even if you go with the best the splines twist. Seen Snap-On do it.
In theory Torx should be the best. Likely is for woodworking. Like cabinetry for example. Problaby also best for the factory. In the real world with metal though I'll take Allen head every time.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 09:39 AM
  #27  
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Like said, you can change to SS or even internal hex but whatever you choose don't use that torque wrench on them anymore. For me, no Loctite and a touch past snug does the job just fine.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:13 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by In2It
Buy some snap on tips or other good quality tips for what ever you decide to use fastener wise.Not that harbor freight crap or as they say jap crap,and you won't have problems.
I used a MAC T27 and have for all 8 changes. The zinc fastener is crap. Thanks to all for the replies. Looks like I'll take a harder look at the sites that were recommended.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by btsom
My factory torx derby cover bolts show no wear even after 11 or so fluid changes (50,000 miles so far). How much torque are you using?
I do own the manual and it states 84 - 108 in-lbs. I torque to 90 in-lbs.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #30  
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Get good tools to work with and replace them when worn and usually you will have no problems with the fasteners themselves for years. When you do, change them, they are not expensive like say,synthetic oil,or batteries or tires.
 
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