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Andrews tech claimed my rear axle will only move back 1/8" when changing from a 32 to 31 tooth trans pulley. Well I marked my axle and checked it with the wheel removed. No problem pleanty of room.
I got everything back together and now my adjustment is maxed out and the belt is a tad loose. Now what?
A fellow memeber claims he added a little weld to the cams to give him more adjustment. Not a bad idea. This would probably be easier then taking it all apart, changing the pulley back and giving up! What other options do I have?
Its snowing out and we are months away from riding so pleanty of time to decide what to do.
belt specs have been revised over the years...my evos ran about 9/16" slack and ran many many thousands of miles.
and measured with rider on bike ? on the ground etc. ?
mike
Manual says FLHX/FLTRX should be 1/4-5/16" with bike in the air or on the jiffy stand. I'm at the far end of the scale or looser. Would it be ok? Maybe. But I want it to be right. My buddy ran his FLHX too loose with a 107". We were out riding and his 2 week old (non adjusted) belt snapped shifting into 2nd!!! I don't want to worry about this happening.
Had same problem on a vrod i had. Small peice
Of "barstock" between axle adjustment cam and
Bump on swingarm will work as long as you have
Space for axle to move back. No need to weld
Anything.
Manual says FLHX/FLTRX should be 1/4-5/16" with bike in the air or on the jiffy stand. I'm at the far end of the scale or looser. Would it be ok? Maybe. But I want it to be right. My buddy ran his FLHX too loose with a 107". We were out riding and his 2 week old (non adjusted) belt snapped shifting into 2nd!!! I don't want to worry about this happening.
HD revised the belt tension in 2011 for all touring bikes to 1/4 to 7/16th ,anyway on my 92 softail i went from a 70 tooth rear pulley to a 61 and used a 128 tooth belt,had to change axle adjuster bolts to longer ones and both belt guards been have been happy with lower rpm's on the highway.would'nt gear it any higher than this though.
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