Cam Install question, won't fire
This is the 2nd negative post I see from Eshaw301 in the last 20 min. Totally uncool as we are all on here for help and not to get bashed! Totally uncool man! No we aren't soft we just don't need the trash talking!
Hope you get it figured out soon Streetin!
Hope you get it figured out soon Streetin!
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 959
Likes: 5
From: Oswego, IL
Eshaw301, just leave it be if you don't have anything constructive to suggest or offer....
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 27
From: Texas
I guess Eshaw301 is having a bad evening.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 45
From: Indian Land, SC
I just read his post telling the guy who is having starting problems with his 103. He first tells the OP that his signature is a farce, then tells him to ditch his cams and get a better battery. He closes his comment by saying "You're Welcome" before the OP can even respond.
I guess Eshaw301 is having a bad evening.
I guess Eshaw301 is having a bad evening.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
No, As a Delphi project engineer on the development of that system I can tell you that you will not ruin the coil with a few revolutions with the plug wire off or secondary coil open. The open secondary creates additional stress in the encapsulated secondary winding and is a durability test for the product with the specification for operating open in days not seconds. Usually the coil fails during a thermal shock in open secondary where the spark finds an arc path thru the cracked epoxy. Your few cranks should not have cuased any issues.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Streetin,
1 - Pull your plugs
2 - Place a thumb over a plug hole and bump it over. If it blows your thumb off the hole you have some compression in that cylinder.
3 - Place a thumb over the other plug hole and bump it over. If it blows your thumb off the hole you have some compression in that cylinder.
4 - If either cylinder feels different, check your pushrods again. I am sure you have heard and seen many ways to do it but, if you watch the exhaust go up and down, then the intake goes up and down, and you continue to rotate that cylinder to TDC or anywhere close you have the lifters on the bottom of the cam circle. (Both valves must be fully closed at TDC to have compression for fire)
5 - Loosen the pushrods 1 at a time, and extend to the point of feeling no verticle movement with the pushrod seated in the rocker arm and the other in the lifter pocket. I make small adjustments spinning and feeling for "0 Lash". When you go from slop or clearance to "0Lash" start your adjustment then lock it down.
6 - Repeat pushrod adjustment for other pushrod.
7 - Wait 10 minutes before rotating engine to allow oil to bleed from the lifters you just adjusted, keeps you from bending a valve. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for other cylinder.
8 - Repeat steps 2 & 3, if you still have a difference in compression, should consider cam timing as the root cause.
1 - Pull your plugs
2 - Place a thumb over a plug hole and bump it over. If it blows your thumb off the hole you have some compression in that cylinder.
3 - Place a thumb over the other plug hole and bump it over. If it blows your thumb off the hole you have some compression in that cylinder.
4 - If either cylinder feels different, check your pushrods again. I am sure you have heard and seen many ways to do it but, if you watch the exhaust go up and down, then the intake goes up and down, and you continue to rotate that cylinder to TDC or anywhere close you have the lifters on the bottom of the cam circle. (Both valves must be fully closed at TDC to have compression for fire)
5 - Loosen the pushrods 1 at a time, and extend to the point of feeling no verticle movement with the pushrod seated in the rocker arm and the other in the lifter pocket. I make small adjustments spinning and feeling for "0 Lash". When you go from slop or clearance to "0Lash" start your adjustment then lock it down.
6 - Repeat pushrod adjustment for other pushrod.
7 - Wait 10 minutes before rotating engine to allow oil to bleed from the lifters you just adjusted, keeps you from bending a valve. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for other cylinder.
8 - Repeat steps 2 & 3, if you still have a difference in compression, should consider cam timing as the root cause.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,612
Likes: 6,439
From: Honah Lee
No, As a Delphi project engineer on the development of that system I can tell you that you will not ruin the coil with a few revolutions with the plug wire off or secondary coil open. The open secondary creates additional stress in the encapsulated secondary winding and is a durability test for the product with the specification for operating open in days not seconds. Usually the coil fails during a thermal shock in open secondary where the spark finds an arc path thru the cracked epoxy. Your few cranks should not have cuased any issues.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 25, 2013 at 07:22 AM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Thanks to you I have a new folder on coil. Knew I had read the ECM was protected from voltage reversal and AC voltage from bad diodes in the regulator but had read cranking with high voltage wire not grounded could hurt coil but all the cases I have see proved it not to be the case. Good to hear someone who knows why. Not to get too far off subject but what cause the low voltage CPS (crank position sensor) to go bad? Is there more then just a little coil of fine wire in it? Thanks
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Time to just take the bike into a shop and have them fix it. After doing my cam swap I swore up and down that it should be a crime for harley dealer or any shop for that matter to charge people for this job. That's how simple it is to do cam swap in a 103. But now, I see why they charge...for folks like the op that can somehow find a way to screw this up. Unbelievable!!!
