I'd highly recommend replacing the inner cam bearings. The bearings aren't that expensive but you'll need a special puller/installer tool. You can buy the Heartland Products tools from MBSMFG.com directly or on ebay, use them, then sell them and get most of your money back (kind of like renting them). I did this and was out approximately $25.00. My bearings came with my 107 kit, but MBSMFG has these available at a good price.

 

I don't know that i would use those old lifters. they are all broke in for the cams that are in there now. could be worn one way or another. surely a set of new lifters wouldn't be to costly.

 

Took the words right out of my mouth! LOL!

 

Thanks for all of the replies.These are roller lifters,there either good or junk.Its not like a reg flat tappet setup.If i was running new cams def new lifters.I'm going to do the the bearings also.I did transmissions for 20 yrs,i'm going to use those tools to see if they will work for me in my press.If not i will buy the correct tools online somewhere.

 

+1 on that. I have been quoted $300 and $350 by two different Indy shops for the labor.

 

I would do the job for $125 if the owner removed and installed the exhaust system himself. The rest is cake with the proper tools.

 

Local retired guy with a nice shop $40 an hour cash, can't be beat.

 

I resued my lifters on my 255 kit one year later i redid the heads and changed to a different pistons. did not touch the lifters ON THIS HEAD CHANGe
drove the bike for the next year and go to biktoberfest in the fall after spending a week driving in tenn mountains. as soon as im accross the street from rossmeyers at a traffic liight the bike stalls, i change the plugs the wires bike keeps stalling during bike meet. then because of all the extra starts along with rip off dyno guy not turning on my acr.s 3 months earlier for a few days till i figure out the rip off he pulled on me, basic se map with no changes to anything on map, acr's shut off cant get hold of him to get time to reload with acr on. I found newer map in my racetuner and made changes my self and did about 6 smart tune runs. my starter burns out sucking 429 out of my pocket while on vac for a new high output starter. winter comes bike goes in garage.
I bring it out in spring the bike is still stalling once and a while on idle never while under load. this goes on until about july ive tried everything except changing emc and and mass flow sensor. wondering if i have a short in wiring harness or bent push rods spun cam lobe ,I pull the cams out. since the 255 cams are wrong for my 10.5:1 set up ccp way too high but pulls like a tank. and im wondering if air flow sensor on intake is poched figure ill try stock cams and see what happens if i pull cams out put in stock ones.
so i pull cams out and look at my front lifters, pits on the rollers both lifters front cylinder. well now i need new lifters and so in not putting new lifters then changing the cams again i order new andrews 32 for my 10.5;1 set up which is correct ccp after cam change. I put it back together fire it up the bike has never stalled once since. my oil pressure is over 17 at idle and about 32 while running over 2500 rpm
I can only guess ii had a bad lifter maybe exhaust ,not pumping up wont let exhaust out so bike stalls at idle my wild asssss guess, but the problem is gone now.
stock harley lifter 32 bucks each, if i would have put the new lifters in for an extra 120 bucks i wouldnt have had all these problems. also the 255 will allow reuse of original push rods with stock heads , but, these 255 cams are notoriously noisey so using adjustable pushrods taken to .130 at 3 turns instead of harley se spec of 2.5 turns or .120 will make then run a bit quieter. search posts in here u will see builders recommending 3 turns instead of 2.5 again the turns depends on the threads per inch so one brand maybe 3 turns to hit .130 another may need 3.6 to get the same amount of extension.
also harley has changed the lifter design, they used to have a flat on both sides of the lifter making it real easy to put the lifter in turned 90 degrees thus making the roller now turn in the opposite direction. and the oil hole in lifter is supposed to be on the piston side of the lifter well. again if lifter is reversed oil hole will now face you . since the lifter has a groove cut in lifter and either way doesnt line up with the oil supply hole it will work but the roller that has worn in in one direction will now be turning the opposite direction.
the new design has only one flat so lifter can only go in one way and oil hole now lines right up with oil hole in lifter well. I dont think the new design pumps up as good as the old lifters and i hear they are made in mexico now. if you have the money i would buy a better after market lifter, woods , black ops and adjustable rods while it s apart, since i can do all the work my self it only cost me the price of cams and lifter, i just didnt have the cash to do the lifters since cams and lifters cost me about 400 bucks and life sucks money wise i bought stock ones. once i have spare cash which hopefully will happen in the next ten years ill pull lifters out for better lifters.
I did run the stock push rods for the first cam change stock heads and the 255 were much noisier than stock cams, the same cams with adjustable pushrods set to .130 were quiet a bit quieter
here is my horror story and im sticking to it.

 

Did the same here at 25k, now at 60k. Very quiet, no issues. Unlike flat-tappet setups, there are no issues with swapping parts around on a roller-tappet configuration assuming everything is working properly.