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Those travel limiters and the extreme preload on the lifters may be causing
your noise. 1.5 flats is only about .007, so not much room for the hydraulics of the lifter to buffer the valve spring tension. Remember that a typical piece of copy paper is nearly .005 in thickness. Heck, I am no mechanic, but you are just this side of running solid lifters with that setup. Maybe run them for a while then go back and remove the travel limiters, set preload from no lash down to .100 (that's about 20 flats) and try it then. Maybe it will soften and tone down the noise quite a bit.
I guess you all don't pay attention to anything other than what you think you know. I posted the lash adjustment for the GP 1023's in my last post, in the first picture. For the intake it is 1 1/2 turns if your pushrods are 24 tpi. I think I would take out the travel limiters and re-adjust to Gaterman spec. 1 1/2 turns is closer to .070 not .007, .070 being a little more than 1/16", not the thickness of copy paper. 20 flats may possibly bottom out these lifters.
I have been impressed with the new Gatermn lifter.
Where do you buy them online? Unless I missed it, Gaterman doesn't sell them on their website
Get in touch with INDEPENDENT_1 on this forum. I think he will be able to get that information for you.
I already had a set of limiters and, on my last bike with 26's, I had some lifter bleed down hot start issues. Thought I'd give them a try with the 48's. FWIW, S&S recommends bottoming out on the travel limiter and then backing off 6 flats (32 too) or 1 full turn. I did that and had horrible clatter. On the advice of some tech guys on HTT, I am trying the 1 1/2 flats off the bottom for now. If it doesn't quiet down, I'll pull the limiters.
I already had a set of limiters and, on my last bike with 26's, I had some lifter bleed down hot start issues. Thought I'd give them a try with the 48's. FWIW, S&S recommends bottoming out on the travel limiter and then backing off 6 flats (32 too) or 1 full turn. I did that and had horrible clatter. On the advice of some tech guys on HTT, I am trying the 1 1/2 flats off the bottom for now. If it doesn't quiet down, I'll pull the limiters.
Are the lifters you have the new GP 1023's that they just released in the last two weeks? If so I think I would try them without limiters and follow the preload adjustment in this picture below. S&S says that their pushrods are 32 tpi, so the bottom adjustment is what you want. Here is a link to S&S on adjusting their pushrods. http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=38
Are the lifters you have the new GP 1023's that they just released in the last two weeks? If so I think I would try them without limiters and follow the preload adjustment in this picture below. S&S says that their pushrods are 32 tpi, so the bottom adjustment is what you want. Here is a link to S&S on adjusting their pushrods. http://www.sscycle.com/feature/featureview.php?s_id=38
Yes, I have the new 1023's. I'm going to use a mechanic stethoscope today to try to isolate the noise. I may very well end up pulling the travel limiters. If I do, I will try Bill's advice and go with what appears to be very little preload. I basically followed the S&S instructions and that didn't work out well.
VTL could you define what 'Bleed down' actually means?
It's been graciously answered.
If anyone has ever slid a new cam in a small block chevy (or any other with hydraulic lifters) they know. Until they fill with oil and get "pumped up" they
can tick and rattle. They have a spring to maintain a height, and rely on oil pressure to finish out their overall dimension, and pressure, to overcome the valve springs.
Given everything I had read about the cheap lifters the MoCo has been using,
I figure if they survive the warranty period, I will replace them with something better when new cams go in.
Cheap insurance, after the warranty expires. I wont give the MoCo a reason do deny a warranty claim if it were to happen, so I am waiting until then.
I'd steer clear of the comp lifters. Experienced hot bleed after a mere 3,000 miles.
Prior to this thread I started one asking who used the Chevy lifters and folks were recommending the 850-1 fro comp which I ordered last week, now it's Gaterman 1023's that are the best. How much are the Gaterman's and where does one order them? One guy replied he had 70k miles on the comp lifters with no problems. What cam are u using?
Prior to this thread I started one asking who used the Chevy lifters and folks were recommending the 850-1 fro comp which I ordered last week, now it's Gaterman 1023's that are the best. How much are the Gaterman's and where does one order them? One guy replied he had 70k miles on the comp lifters with no problems. What cam are u using?
the reason you dont get too many people who have experience in HyLift Johnson lifters is because most people on this forum follow the crowd. i love the Johnson lifters, and they're half the price of the Woods with equal or better performance. but what do i know? i just build bikes for a living.
Prior to this thread I started one asking who used the Chevy lifters and folks were recommending the 850-1 fro comp which I ordered last week, now it's Gaterman 1023's that are the best. How much are the Gaterman's and where does one order them? One guy replied he had 70k miles on the comp lifters with no problems. What cam are u using?
the reason you dont get too many people who have experience in HyLift Johnson lifters is because most people on this forum follow the crowd. i love the Johnson lifters, and they're half the price of the Woods with equal or better performance. but what do i know? i just build bikes for a living.
Problem is when someone does a lot of lookin around Johnson lifters dont even come up. I chose woods because all other lifters had more issues in their past. It was Wood or modified LS7 lifters goin in my bike. Wasnt a matter of following the croud for me. I woulda gave them a hard look. But I get it. Lotta sheeple out their.
I just changed out my 255 cams with hd lifters this weekend, three out of four lifters had flaking of the roller, and one had a groove worn in to match the one on the cam lobe. Put these in when the bike was new. Had 20k on this set up.
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