Installing the Hayden M6 tensioner
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Extreme HDF Member
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From: Glendale AZ
Installing the Hayden M6 tensioner
For those of you that have already installed the M6 tensioner, how did you compress the shoe while your bolting it up. I read something about a zip tie, could some of you discuss how that was done and how you compressed it to further shim it once it's on....Where exactly am I wanting the 1/2" deflection and should the tranny be in neutral?
Last edited by TUCCI; Apr 28, 2013 at 09:31 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Alberta, Canada
Installed my M6 a few weeks ago and didn't need to compress or zip-tie anything. I just slid it under the chain from the clutch side. (Had to wiggle it a bit) I ended up with 1/4" clearance and not the 3/8" per: instructions. Others have noticed the same thing with no apparent problems 'bottoming out' etc.
The measurement is taken from the bottom of the shoe to the top of the metal body or to the top of the shim if you're using one
The measurement is taken from the bottom of the shoe to the top of the metal body or to the top of the shim if you're using one
Last edited by robvg; Apr 4, 2013 at 09:55 AM. Reason: more info
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Extreme HDF Member
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From: Glendale AZ
So then the 1/2-3/8 will be the flexing of the shoe on the spring not slack in the chain between the compensator and the clutch pack? I notice by the picture there are spacers on the front side of the bolts did most of you need to shim the bolts because they were too long and how was the clearance with the cover? How did the gasket do when you removed the cover, did it maintain integrity and easily reused?
Unofficial HDF Chaplain
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From: san diego
I compressed mine in the vise and wrapped 2 zip ties around it. I recommend 2 as 1 broke on me and sent **** everywhere!! but found all the parts (whew!) and it seems to have made a big difference in the shift quality as well as searching for that elusive "neutral"! get a new gasket!!
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Extreme HDF Member
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From: Glendale AZ
So when you compress it your looking for the measurement to be the deflection when it bottomsfrom the contact point of the chain is this correct? (1/2 is what the instruction says) but I'm reading 1/4-3/8" from most of the threads probably to allow for wear.
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Extreme HDF Member
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From: Glendale AZ
You didn't need to use em on yours, how many miles did you have on the bike/chain?
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Tucci, when I installed mine I think (its been a few months) that I installed one end first and then pushed or used a lever (screw driver) to get the other end in place. I didn't have to use any extra shims and my RG had close to 30k miles on it at the time. I don't remember about the spacers. I could have used my primary gasket again, but I had already bought a new one so I used it.
When you remove the old shoe and tensioner I would suggest using tie wraps to hold it in a compressed state.
I am close to a service so I may drop the cover and check it since according to the instructions I was suppose to at 500 miles. Its working just fine though.
When you remove the old shoe and tensioner I would suggest using tie wraps to hold it in a compressed state.
I am close to a service so I may drop the cover and check it since according to the instructions I was suppose to at 500 miles. Its working just fine though.
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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 374
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From: Alberta, Canada
The spacers that I'm referring to are the two ones that the mounting bolts travel through. I've got 48,000 kms (about 30,000 miles) on a 2009 RK and didn't need to use the shims that were provided with the kit.
Last edited by $tonecold; Apr 4, 2013 at 10:31 AM.