+Hey guys. I have an 09 Road King. Im getting ready to go to a stage 1 kit. The problem I am having is the EFI tuner. I have done my research and totally understand how they work. My problem is that I can't get the answer I am looking for.
I am wondering if there is one out there that will give me a lower idle. Not so much that I lose oil pressure but one that will make my bike just low enough to give me a nice "gurgle" at idle.
Any help would be appreciated.

 

EFI will never give you a potato potato sound some cam will replicate it at idle but not like a evo or shovel.

 

If you drop the idle almost at all on a twin cam it drop oil pressure when warm to the point that I wouldn't trust it to oil the rockers.

 

Right on. I knew that I couldn't drop the idle far but I didn't know that even the most minimal change would screw it up. I did know that I wouldn't be able to get the "potato potato" sound. I wasn't looking for that so much as a nice rumble.
Any thoughts on an EFI? I know everyone has opinions. Give me yours and tell me why you chose it. Any help would be great.

 

When picking out a tuner you have to include what are you going to do with the bike later on down the road, Cams, Big Bore, Heads, Stage 1-2-3

Maybe even more important is what does your dyno tuner use, Harley shop all they want to work with is the SERT, If there is a Jap bike tuner they will more than likely be used to the Power Commanders.

I would stay away from Vance and Hines or similar tuners they just don't have the tunability that you can get with spending another 100.00 for a PCV

If you can do your own programing, Power Commander Vision or the PCV (5) with auto tune, or TTS Master Tune, Thunder Max

If you're just going to do a Stage 1 Xieds will do and save some $$

I myself run the PCV. I run NO2 and the switch map on the fly is the reason why.

 

Hold the brake and let the clutch out a little? HA. Least you will be able to hear what it is going to sound like. However the idle setting is not to lube the upper end. It will do that at 500. What the EMC cannot do is catch all the circumstances thrown at it to maintain a safe idle rpm from that low a setting. Hence 1000 or so idle. Last thing you want is slam it down at a red light or other condition and have it die. Could get you hurt. I wonder if the new throttle by wire system with faster ECM (?) and no IAC valve could handle a lower idle. (?)

 

Talk to the outfit doing the tuning. I had a HD dealer do mine and they prefer the TTS over the SERT and that is what they recommend.

 

I use nightrider.com XIEDS/VIEDS

I plan on no further changes than a stage 1*

and the xieds fit the bill for me at under $130.- they plug inline with the o2 sensors and done.

The Ness big sucker was $114 and my Nightsticks were about $200

you can see I went the bargain route...I gotta a bike habit to support.


mike


* IMHO stage 1 gives the best reliability, longevity and MPG- which to me are more important than 'performance'- I have faster bikes which were made to be fast. the FLHTC is a barge. I love it

 

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the info.
How hard is it to tune yourselves. I prefer to do it myself and I don't like our dealer around here. They price gouge like crazy. I'm sure that I could figure it out though

 

After I finish my cam swap, I'm looking into a Dobeck tuner. They seem to have excellent customer service, and I believe the owner is somehow related to the Dynojet folks. Any thoughts on this tuner? I also think they give a $50 discount for mentioning this site. Here's their website.
http://dobeckperformance.com/