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Bagger Wobble: Dealer Explanation...

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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Hogpro
Any tire besides a Dunlop will be run at a higher pressure. I run my mine at the max psi listed on the tire.
I will be even more disappointed if I find out they were testing the bike with under inflated tires. I bought the those RC Calypso wheels and Metzelers from you guys while I have been here in KStan. The wheel/ tires went from you to my house and the wife dropped em off at the dealership for them to mount. Hopefully they read the sidewall for PSI......
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 11:40 AM
  #32  
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You are way off base in two respects.

First, most do not experience wobble at high speed sweeping curves or otherwise.

Second, your dealer was doing you a favor even working on the bike with the hodge podge of parts you installed on a bike that had a wobble problem already. A 21/16 wheel combo that they didn't sell you or install; 11.5 " shocks mounted on some cheap lowering blocks that they didn't sell or install; and , your bitching about their inability to fix the mess you created.

By the way, how many miles on the bike?

I know I offered no solution, but you need to get realistic about what a dealership can do with the science project you left with them.

Carl
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Harleypingman
You are way off base in two respects.

First, most do not experience wobble at high speed sweeping curves or otherwise.

Second, your dealer was doing you a favor even working on the bike with the hodge podge of parts you installed on a bike that had a wobble problem already. A 21/16 wheel combo that they didn't sell you or install; 11.5 " shocks mounted on some cheap lowering blocks that they didn't sell or install; and , your bitching about their inability to fix the mess you created.

By the way, how many miles on the bike?

I know I offered no solution, but you need to get realistic about what a dealership can do with the science project you left with them.

Carl
Cool! Thanks for letting me know what I need to do. There are no cheap lowering blocks on my bike just so you are aware. Maybe reading the entire thread might help you come up with a better analysis. "mess I created". Cool story bro. Tell it agi....never mind.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #34  
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If I understand this posting correctly this is a highly modified ( suspension wise ) 6 ( almost 7 ) year old scooter with 33,000 miles on it ... The fact that they would even consider looking at it is generous of them to say the least ... There is more print on bagger wobble on the 2008 and earlier scooters ( not to mention the 2009 and later "new chassis" design ) that one would have to read for a month to cipher through all the possible resolutions to the problem on a stock scooter let alone one that has been modified. Because someone else is running the same ( basically ) set up as you are has no bearing on your condition given miles ran, years of age on many of the basic suspension components and the size of the operator and how that operater negotiates the scooter ( slow into, hard into, ) in a cornering or deceleration situation ... I know this is not what you want to hear but all of these conditions weigh heavy on the optimal workings of the suspension.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 12:26 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by LoneWolf01
Other guys I know are running the same set up with great results. What shocks would you recommend for me to achieve the lower stance I am after?
There are two issues here, one is getting a low ride stance, the other is maintaining stability. Lowering the rear end involves reducing suspension length and travel, to prevent moving parts of the bike from hitting other parts. This in turn is normally only possible by using the cheapest and poorest quality shocks. Top end brands don't make short shocks, because the wheel travel cannot be controlled or damped over very short shock stroke. So very short shocks = poor rear wheel control, which is a contributing factor to poor stability.

Other guys may well be getting 'great results', but as you are not, we can leave them to one side. Having read my bagger wobble thread you know that I refer to ensuring the bike is in tip-top shape, to provide the best ride results, but that comment is made regarding stock or near stock bikes. If your bike is very low at the rear, then you have to consider compromising your desire for a low stance and use longer shocks. It is worth trying stock length shocks, to see if your problems are improved. There are some great shocks out there, but not very short ones.

However it will be far more useful to discuss all this once you are back home and riding your bike, so we can develop this discussion further, rather than you being on the other side of the World, dreaming about riding it.....
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
There are two issues here, one is getting a low ride stance, the other is maintaining stability. Lowering the rear end involves reducing suspension length and travel, to prevent moving parts of the bike from hitting other parts. This in turn is normally only possible by using the cheapest and poorest quality shocks. Top end brands don't make short shocks, because the wheel travel cannot be controlled or damped over very short shock stroke. So very short shocks = poor rear wheel control, which is a contributing factor to poor stability. If the bike exhibited poor handling under all normal operating conditions then I would fully agree with this. I was able to put about 2000 miles on the Bitchin Bagger 11.25 shocks my last rotation home. The only handling issue I had was with the sweepers at higher speeds in the 70/5+ range. Other than that the bike handles well and the ride is much better than what it was with the stock shocks with respect to street manners.

Other guys may well be getting 'great results', but as you are not, we can leave them to one side. Having read my bagger wobble thread you know that I refer to ensuring the bike is in tip-top shape, to provide the best ride results, but that comment is made regarding stock or near stock bikes. If your bike is very low at the rear, then you have to consider compromising your desire for a low stance and use longer shocks. It is worth trying stock length shocks, to see if your problems are improved. There are some great shocks out there, but not very short ones.

However it will be far more useful to discuss all this once you are back home and riding your bike, so we can develop this discussion further, rather than you being on the other side of the World, dreaming about riding it.....
Agreed but, what some are forgetting or did not read is the fact that the bike, although still exhibiting some wobble, it is not as pronounced/bad as it was when the bike was completely stock back in Nov when I bought it. That is why I bought the Bagger Brace in the first place.

The ride between Phoenix and Malibu will give me some more insight I'm sure. I appreciate your insight. Dreaming about riding is right. 7 more days....
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #37  
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I had a 2007 SG.. I tried everything to get rid of the wobble including true-trak, different tires. It's very common with that year SG.

Although....... I did put some new hand grips, sundowner seat and a chopped tour pak. So that must have been the problem.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 01:11 PM
  #38  
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I ride a 2005 Road Glide with 64K miles. No wobble at all. 21 front 18 rear. Non stock suspension of course but definitely not lowered shocks. Taller in fact. Regardless, tire pressure is always correct when we ship wheels but tires lose a little here and there from variations in the temperature. It is a good habit to check your tires weekly.

If you have Metzeler's the front should be 50 psi and the rear should be at 42 psi.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Harleypingman
You are way off base in two respects.

First, most do not experience wobble at high speed sweeping curves or otherwise.

Second, your dealer was doing you a favor even working on the bike with the hodge podge of parts you installed on a bike that had a wobble problem already. A 21/16 wheel combo that they didn't sell you or install; 11.5 " shocks mounted on some cheap lowering blocks that they didn't sell or install; and , your bitching about their inability to fix the mess you created.

By the way, how many miles on the bike?

I know I offered no solution, but you need to get realistic about what a dealership can do with the science project you left with them.

Carl

Anybody who takes the time to read my posts knows I am not a fan of Harley dealership service depts. and their overall competency, but come on guy, how can you complain about handling and expect the dealer to fix it with the non factory mods you have made?
All you need to understand is that if you would call Harley and ask them if with your mods would they cover suspension issues they would have told you NO! No wonder Harley always takes a CYA stance with most warranty complaints, with guys like you expecting what you are expecting.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #40  
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Just from reading what others have said (I have no experience in suspension mods) perhaps now is the time for new swing arm bushings, or perhaps the entire Glide-Pro engine mount and swing arm bushings and shaft. Unless there is a broken weld somewhere, optimizing the basic set up couldn't hurt, especially since your mods are reputed to add to, rather than decrease the tendency to wobble.
 
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