Clutch Adjustment...what did i do different?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: CT
it didnt work stiggy,,so have the service manual stiggy, im not 100 percent sure if the pages line up but on page 6-6 and 6-7 it shows the ball and ramp assembly, one picture shows the inner ramp with the handle the attaches to the cable at about 10 ocklock and then the figure 6-6 shows the dissenbled ramp assembly with the inner ramp with the hook at 12 ocklock ,,, 12 ocklock is where u said it should be right?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,207
From: Oxford, Nc
I don't have your 2010 manual but the ramps haven't changed. Pull the cable from the bottom ( where the ramp is,) so that the ***** are at the deepest point in their grooves. The ramp handle will be pointing up and the lever will be against its perch.
You've seen how it works: When you pull the lever the ramp grooves get shallow and separate the plates, forcing the clutch rod to the left and opening your clutch plates.
But loosen your adjusting nut first, unless you've figured out why your clutch plates are open as the bike sits right now.
You've seen how it works: When you pull the lever the ramp grooves get shallow and separate the plates, forcing the clutch rod to the left and opening your clutch plates.
But loosen your adjusting nut first, unless you've figured out why your clutch plates are open as the bike sits right now.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: CT
I don't have your 2010 manual but the ramps haven't changed. Pull the cable from the bottom ( where the ramp is,) so that the ***** are at the deepest point in their grooves. The ramp handle will be pointing up and the lever will be against its perch.
You've seen how it works: When you pull the lever the ramp grooves get shallow and separate the plates, forcing the clutch rod to the left and opening your clutch plates.
But loosen your adjusting nut first, unless you've figured out why your clutch plates are open as the bike sits right now.
You've seen how it works: When you pull the lever the ramp grooves get shallow and separate the plates, forcing the clutch rod to the left and opening your clutch plates.
But loosen your adjusting nut first, unless you've figured out why your clutch plates are open as the bike sits right now.
My clutch adjustment is correct ...i every so slightly turn the adjuster nut in and then back off..
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,207
From: Oxford, Nc
It's something simple I'm certain. What concerned me i that your clutch was "pulled in" with the bike sitting still. That says adjuster nut. So make sure you can turn that with your fingers before you check the ramp. Good Luck!
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: CT
yea man ..checked the ram and its definitely good..this is insane..idk what to do..i tried adjusting everything again and same clutch feel...any way to check the cable if its binding?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: CT
welp..wasted 3 1/2 hours to get no where...ball and ramp are good, i know the adjuster nut is adjusted to spec, but i also know the clutch is engaged,,i started the bike and could smell burning clutch within about 30 seconds..im ready to ship it to the dealer on monday ...i have never been so confused about something so simple in my life
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 84
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From: Ohio
Why did you have your primary cover off? Were you doing something with the clutch pack and had the spring off? If so, did you remember to tighten the bolts for the clutch spring? If those are backed off you wont have any clutch pressure and the resistance at the end of pull could be because you're finally working the spring.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: CT
Why did you have your primary cover off? Were you doing something with the clutch pack and had the spring off? If so, did you remember to tighten the bolts for the clutch spring? If those are backed off you wont have any clutch pressure and the resistance at the end of pull could be because you're finally working the spring.
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I did this to my bike. Here is how to fix it.
1. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.
2. Open the trans cover and make sure that the ramp is in the open position. This will mean that the cable is extended pushing the arm down in the trans cover.
3. Before installing the cover, go over to the clutch pack. Unlock the nut, turn the clutch bolt in until the plunger on the trans cover side starts to move out. Move this plunger out until there is about a half inch clearance from the plunger to the trans.
4. Install the cover, position open with the cable extended.
5. Readjust the clutch pack to the factory settings.
6. Tighten the clutch cable.
7. Your done.
8. Get a beer and forget this **** ever happened.
1. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.
2. Open the trans cover and make sure that the ramp is in the open position. This will mean that the cable is extended pushing the arm down in the trans cover.
3. Before installing the cover, go over to the clutch pack. Unlock the nut, turn the clutch bolt in until the plunger on the trans cover side starts to move out. Move this plunger out until there is about a half inch clearance from the plunger to the trans.
4. Install the cover, position open with the cable extended.
5. Readjust the clutch pack to the factory settings.
6. Tighten the clutch cable.
7. Your done.
8. Get a beer and forget this **** ever happened.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 496
Likes: 4
From: CT
I did this to my bike. Here is how to fix it.
1. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.
2. Open the trans cover and make sure that the ramp is in the open position. This will mean that the cable is extended pushing the arm down in the trans cover.
3. Before installing the cover, go over to the clutch pack. Unlock the nut, turn the clutch bolt in until the plunger on the trans cover side starts to move out. Move this plunger out until there is about a half inch clearance from the plunger to the trans.
4. Install the cover, position open with the cable extended.
5. Readjust the clutch pack to the factory settings.
6. Tighten the clutch cable.
7. Your done.
8. Get a beer and forget this **** ever happened.
1. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.
2. Open the trans cover and make sure that the ramp is in the open position. This will mean that the cable is extended pushing the arm down in the trans cover.
3. Before installing the cover, go over to the clutch pack. Unlock the nut, turn the clutch bolt in until the plunger on the trans cover side starts to move out. Move this plunger out until there is about a half inch clearance from the plunger to the trans.
4. Install the cover, position open with the cable extended.
5. Readjust the clutch pack to the factory settings.
6. Tighten the clutch cable.
7. Your done.
8. Get a beer and forget this **** ever happened.
then go over to the clutch pack and adjust the plunger to where the shaft coming out of the trans starts to move out about about a half inch.
install the trans cover then adjust like normal...
now i just have a question..how does the readjust the clutch pack..when i took the trans cover off before,that plunger is just freewheeling in the trans..correct?..
im all for trying it out..i just want to make sure i understand everything.. thanks for your help
marc