Changing Pads And ABS?????
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From: Asscrackistan
Changing Pads And ABS?????
Does ABS Have to be reset by Stealer only?? WTF.. Changed front pads on a friends 2011 RK, a stuck top piston took out the outside pad on the left front caliper, was able to free piston and ordered new caliper from stealer. For **** and giggles, we Replaced pads and reassmebled, test rode bike, brakes feel good, but get a slight hop. Said to myself, hmmm, kinda feels like ABS action. Happened to be looking in the new JP Catalog at brake parts and see, in red, "Brakes with ABS to be installed by sealer" WTF?
Also, think rotor is also bad, jacked up bike, spin front tire and brakes still drag on rotor, also stopping the wheel at what appears to be high side of warped rotor. I suggested he replace rotors with free float if necessary.
Ideas?
Also, think rotor is also bad, jacked up bike, spin front tire and brakes still drag on rotor, also stopping the wheel at what appears to be high side of warped rotor. I suggested he replace rotors with free float if necessary.
Ideas?
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From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
No difference changing pads on an ABS versus a non ABS bike. Now if you have disconnected the brake line and rebuilt a caliper, then certainly there is a significant bleeding job in front of you.
If you are not able to get a satisfactory front brake, it's possible that there is air trapped in the ABS module. The dealer's Digital Technician can detect this air, alerting the technician to continue the bleeding process until the DT says the coast is clear. So, I am suspecting that is what JP was probably referring to in their product literature.
Sounds like the rotors are certainly warped. Floating rotors warp as well. I had a set of HD floating rotors and they didn't last very long before they were pulsing. I was told by an un-named source that the HD floating rotor carrier is not separated sufficiently from the outer friction ring, thus allowing the friction ring, when hot, to deform against the carrier and warp.
If you are not able to get a satisfactory front brake, it's possible that there is air trapped in the ABS module. The dealer's Digital Technician can detect this air, alerting the technician to continue the bleeding process until the DT says the coast is clear. So, I am suspecting that is what JP was probably referring to in their product literature.
Sounds like the rotors are certainly warped. Floating rotors warp as well. I had a set of HD floating rotors and they didn't last very long before they were pulsing. I was told by an un-named source that the HD floating rotor carrier is not separated sufficiently from the outer friction ring, thus allowing the friction ring, when hot, to deform against the carrier and warp.
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From: Asscrackistan
We didn't disconnect any lines, just replaced pads and put caliper back on just to see if it works. So, air in the line wil set of the ABS light? If so, should I just bleed both front brakes?
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From: Asscrackistan
I did remove the resivor cover to releave back pressure, little brake fluid came out and was replaced. Never got low enough to get air in, at least so I think! Never saw any indicator of that happening.
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From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
OK, if all you did was clean the pistons then replace the pads and reinstall the original calipers, then air was not introduced into the system.
I didn't say anything about the setting off the ABS light, so not sure why you ask. I haven't had air in my ABS module, so I don't know what kind of indication it might give if air does get into it. But that is not the issue here because you have not exposed the system to air. The ABS normally blinks until the bike starts rolling under power then it goes off. But it will blink with the bike running and sitting still when first started. Normal.
If it's been a while since your friend has bled his front brakes, and rear brakes for that matter, then yes it would be prudent to pump some new DOT 4 fluid through each caliper. Brake bleeding with new brake fluid should be done every 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Start bleeding with the left caliper first, then once the fluid coming out is clear, move to the right caliper and bleed until clear. Be careful, that stuff will damage paint so use plenty of rags on tank and fender.
I suppose caliper warp could be confused with an ABS action. Genuine ABS action would occur only if the front wheel was hard braked and the ABS encoder sent that data to the ABS module. It would be very abrupt and a totally different feel.
I think your brakes are fine now and your friend has warped rotors, like a bunch of other folks with HDs. That's what is pulsing when you apply the brakes.
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From: Asscrackistan
My assumption was that if you ordered a new caliper, you received it an installed it and now you are having problems. Apparently I read too much into what you wrote. If the piston was cleaned and moving, why order a new caliper anyway?
Ordered a new one before dinking with the old one. Wanted to see if the old one would still work without sticking again after breaking free the stuck piston, if it did, we were going to cancel the order. As it turned out, we get this sort of hopping feeling when the front brakes are applied, now ABS light stays on and blinks. So, without removing that Caliper yet, I still don't know if that piston is stuck in the out position, again. Lifted the bike, spun the tire and get a grinding sound as if the pads are bad and worn. Wheel stops on what appears to be on the high side of a possible distorted rotor and stops turning when hitting the new pad. Now I'm thinking the rotor is warped. In the morning I'm going to put a dial indicator on the rotor to see how much Run Out I get. But this doesn't help with the ABS light being on!
OK, if all you did was clean the pistons then replace the pads and reinstall the original calipers, then air was not introduced into the system.
Correct! Reservoir cover removed only, no brake lines. Fluid didn't get low enough to introduce air in the system, that I am aware of... Anything is possible though! Replaced what little fluid came out (DOT4 Bellray) and replaced cover.
I didn't say anything about the setting off the ABS light, so not sure why you ask. I haven't had air in my ABS module, so I don't know what kind of indication it might give if air does get into it. But that is not the issue here because you have not exposed the system to air. The ABS normally blinks until the bike starts rolling under power then it goes off. But it will blink with the bike running and sitting still when first started. Normal.
If it's been awhile since your friend has bled his front brakes, and rear brakes for that matter, then yes it would be prudent to pump some new DOT 4 fluid through each caliper. Brake bleeding with new brake fluid should be done every 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Start bleeding with the left caliper first, then once the fluid coming out is clear, move to the right caliper and bleed until clear. Be careful, that stuff will damage paint so use plenty of rags on tank and fender.
I suppose caliper warp could be confused with an ABS action. Genuine ABS action would occur only if the front wheel was hard braked and the ABS encoder sent that data to the ABS module. It would be very abrupt and a totally different feel.
I think your brakes are fine now and your friend has warped rotors, like a bunch of other folks with HDs. That's what is pulsing when you apply the brakes.
Ordered a new one before dinking with the old one. Wanted to see if the old one would still work without sticking again after breaking free the stuck piston, if it did, we were going to cancel the order. As it turned out, we get this sort of hopping feeling when the front brakes are applied, now ABS light stays on and blinks. So, without removing that Caliper yet, I still don't know if that piston is stuck in the out position, again. Lifted the bike, spun the tire and get a grinding sound as if the pads are bad and worn. Wheel stops on what appears to be on the high side of a possible distorted rotor and stops turning when hitting the new pad. Now I'm thinking the rotor is warped. In the morning I'm going to put a dial indicator on the rotor to see how much Run Out I get. But this doesn't help with the ABS light being on!
OK, if all you did was clean the pistons then replace the pads and reinstall the original calipers, then air was not introduced into the system.
Correct! Reservoir cover removed only, no brake lines. Fluid didn't get low enough to introduce air in the system, that I am aware of... Anything is possible though! Replaced what little fluid came out (DOT4 Bellray) and replaced cover.
I didn't say anything about the setting off the ABS light, so not sure why you ask. I haven't had air in my ABS module, so I don't know what kind of indication it might give if air does get into it. But that is not the issue here because you have not exposed the system to air. The ABS normally blinks until the bike starts rolling under power then it goes off. But it will blink with the bike running and sitting still when first started. Normal.
If it's been awhile since your friend has bled his front brakes, and rear brakes for that matter, then yes it would be prudent to pump some new DOT 4 fluid through each caliper. Brake bleeding with new brake fluid should be done every 2 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic. Start bleeding with the left caliper first, then once the fluid coming out is clear, move to the right caliper and bleed until clear. Be careful, that stuff will damage paint so use plenty of rags on tank and fender.
I suppose caliper warp could be confused with an ABS action. Genuine ABS action would occur only if the front wheel was hard braked and the ABS encoder sent that data to the ABS module. It would be very abrupt and a totally different feel.
I think your brakes are fine now and your friend has warped rotors, like a bunch of other folks with HDs. That's what is pulsing when you apply the brakes.
Again, checking rotor for warping in the morning, then calling dealer for input about ABS. If rotors are needed, going with Free Float.
Appreciate the input!
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