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Can I adjust the bars on my 2012 Street Glide by rotating up just a bit, without removing the fairing.
I noticed there are a couple large bolts underneath the bottom of the fairing. Can I loosen these, raise up the bars a bit, and then tighten them back down.
Should I take them all the way off and put on some locktight or can I just back them off enought to wiggle the bars up a bit?
no, those bolts are the risers, which are mounted through rubber bushings.
it is possible to rotate the bars somewhat fore or aft, which may do it for you.
to do this the ignition switch and lower dash panel ( with switches) is removed ( check youtube for switch removal)
you can then use a 1/4" allen driver to loosen to 2 rear bolts on the clamps and rotate the bars back..or forward.
cover your tank with a thick towel, check that you have at least 3/8" clearance between controls and tanks with bars turned full left and right
an easy trick to turn the bolts is to slip a 1/4" drive screwdriver bit into the allen head, butt end first. then turn that with a wrench
if you need more adjustment, you may need to swap bars...many options, some require rewiring the bars and new cables, other do not.
there are plenty of threads on this
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jul 23, 2013 at 03:34 PM.
Guess I'm a bit leary of fooling with the switch. You can also adjust the bars by taking the outer fairing off (7 screws) and taking the radio out (4 screws + plugs) will give you access to the two forward most clamp bolts on the bars. Loosening those will take enough force off bars that you can rotate them and retighten the bolts where you desire. Blue locktite would be nice but I doubt its critical as this clamp is pretty tight. This sounds involved but once you round up the star and allen wrench to get the fairing off and long round end allen to get the radio out it takes less than an hour to complete.
Guess I'm a bit leary of fooling with the switch. You can also adjust the bars by taking the outer fairing off (7 screws) and taking the radio out (4 screws + plugs) will give you access to the two forward most clamp bolts on the bars. Loosening those will take enough force off bars that you can rotate them and retighten the bolts where you desire. Blue locktite would be nice but I doubt its critical as this clamp is pretty tight. This sounds involved but once you round up the star and allen wrench to get the fairing off and long round end allen to get the radio out it takes less than an hour to complete.
Like he said. Remove the outer fairing by removing the screws and pop out the radio to expose the clamp bolts. Very simple.
Go mkguitars way. It's easy.
Watch the you tube vid on how to remove your ignition switch. Watch it a few times.
Then once you have your lower dash off just loosen the two back riser clamp screws. No need to loosen all 4.
Just remember to use torque spec t.a.f. When you retighten them so you don't have to do this twice.
no, those bolts are the risers, which are mounted through rubber bushings.
it is possible to rotate the bars somewhat fore or aft, which may do it for you.
to do this the ignition switch and lower dash panel ( with switches) is removed ( check youtube for switch removal)
you can then use a 1/4" allen driver to loosen to 2 rear bolts on the clamps and rotate the bars back..or forward.
cover your tank with a thick towel, check that you have at least 3/8" clearance between controls and tanks with bars turned full left and right
an easy trick to turn the bolts is to slip a 1/4" drive screwdriver bit into the allen head, butt end first. then turn that with a wrench
if you need more adjustment, you may need to swap bars...many options, some require rewiring the bars and new cables, other do not.
there are plenty of threads on this
mike
This is the easiest way to do it, I would not go through all of the trouble pulling the radio, the back bolts holding the radio are a BITCH to get to. First time might take 20-30 min, but After you take of the switch a couple of time you will be able to adjust the bars in 10 min.
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