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Ape install this weekend!

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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 05:36 AM
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Turret_plug's Avatar
Turret_plug
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Default Ape install this weekend! *UPDATED WITH PICS AND TUTORIAL*

Ok, got my kit, book, tranny and brake fluid...... New gaskets and a 12 pack! Any tips from prior installs, or last minute ideas? I'm breaking down the fairing, bars, controls and exhaust tonight after work, most likely gonna remove the clutch and brake lines as well....... Trying to make the install a breeze.

I've installed apes on sportster, Dyna and softail models, but this will be my first touring bike...... And I'm not looking forward to it.

Ay help or tips is greatly appreciated
 

Last edited by Turret_plug; Aug 15, 2013 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 06:04 AM
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If you have done bars before it should be fairly straight forward for you. The fairing and controls may slow you down a bit but you can do it. Good luck and have patience
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 07:15 AM
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Take pictures of the install and post them!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 07:15 AM
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When you get ready to replug the two big wiring plugs under the fairing after you install the bars, you're going to go WTF! They don't like to plug in on the first try. I had to walk away several times before they finally worked. The Harley Tech I know said just keep trying, the same thing happens to him.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 08:36 AM
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Be sure to change out your clamp bushings to urethane bushings. I didn't and had to tear it down again a week later to change them out.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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Why new bushings?
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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He means poly riser bushings. I believe HD's part # is 56298-03. They're $40-ish. I didn't use them but it was just an oversight on my part. I'm sure I'll need them in a couple years after the rubber ones break down.

Here's my tip for you: I didn't have to remove my exhaust like the directions say because I removed the heat shield and used an extended long ball allen to open the Trans cover. Drop your fluid first to minimize spillage.

I'm not sure what bars you're getting or what year/model you're installing but if you have taller bars with sharp bends you might want to invest in a Screamin' Eagle throttle by wire assembly to do away with the green connectory. If you have apes with traditional bends it won't be necessary.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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It's a 2013, the bars are 13" traditional bends, shouldnt need to extend the TBW extensions.....

More food for though, and good help, thanks! I'll grab the poly bushings today
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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Keep everything organized, take pictures or draw them especially with the wires that go into the connectors. You'll have to tilt the fairing forward or remove the radio to get to the forward handlebar clamp bolts. Just take your time staggering the wires if you're soldering. Final thing is make sure your inner clutch pieces are set correctly or you'll never get the adjustment right.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Turret_plug
It's a 2013, the bars are 13" traditional bends, shouldnt need to extend the TBW extensions.....

More food for though, and good help, thanks! I'll grab the poly bushings today

I am thinking you will need wire extensions with the 13" bars especially if your going to do internally wired. I did 10" apes and the stock wire lengths were too short, I went ahead and put in 11" longer because the excess can easily be stored inside the headlight housing and I will have the wires long enough to go to larger bars in the future if I want. If your going to replace bars then go thru the trouble and make it look clean with internal run wires.

The new bushings are stronger than soft OEM. Longer aftermarket bars will flex the bushings much more than OEM length bars, that is why most everyone adds new bushings that are of a stronger quality. You will eventually notice the when you pull yourself forward holding onto the bars if you stick with OEM bushings.
 
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