I need some info on a stator change on my 2000 ultra.I purchased a new stator from my HD dealer part#29987-99a.There is a 45 after the part description on the box so I am guessing that this is a 45 amp stator.I do not believe that this bike came from the factory with a 45 amp stator because there is a shim on the outside of the rotor which the service manual says is only used with the 38 amp system.Can I leave the shim out?Do I have to change the rotor?

 

I just typed all the directions to do this and this dang forum logged me out, now I need do all over again.
If yours is fuel injected part number is right and should be 45 amp. if not it may be 35 amp.
in 99 HD corrected their fubar and redesigned stator.
Some special tools are helpful but not absolutely needed.
first disconnect battery negative, drain primary case oil, disconnect stator from the volt reg.
on stator plug use a small screwdriver to work the orange (I think) plastic piece upp and off the black piece( tight fit but just unsnaps but use caution). Remove wires backward from the black piec.
During reassembly does NOT matter which wire goes where.
Jack bike up and secure.
Remove heel shifter, running board, two bolts in the kick stand hold one of the floor board brackets on.Remove case cover (some bolts are longer, keep track).
HD says use new gasket. If in good condition I clean it and inner case and use permatex high tack on backside of gasket. Never leaked yet, but do it however you want.
Now air compressor and impact gun would be nice but ok if you don't.
Need 1 1/2 in socket for compensator and 1 3/16 for clutch.
HD has a special tool for locking chain and sprocket It's a plastic wedge looks like a step from side. But a good rubber door stop will work.
Place between comp sprocket and upper chain strand. use breaker bar to break nut loose (standard right hand thread) 150-165 ft lb torque.
place between clutch sprocket and looser chain strand to break clutch hub nut loose (left hand thread). 70-80 ftlb torque.

REMEMBER THE CORRECT PLACING OF ALL PARTS ON THE COMPENSATOR ESPECIALLY THE THIN SPACER WASHER.

You may need to remove clutch shaft and diaphragm spring. Can't remember for sure and my buddy has my book right now.
clutch shaft I believe has a snap ring holding it in. Diaphragm spring has 5 or 6 10mm head bolts holding down. Back each out little at a time till all loose. If you remove clutch pack remember the correct orientation of the inner cup shafted spring ring (it's tapered).
remove chain tensioner.
Remove the comp nut and clutch nut. slide compensator and clutch out together and lay aside.
HD has special tool to pull rotor. I use a steering wheel puller (magnets have a strong pull).
Be care going on, must go straight so as not to damage the magnets.
Rotor off ( clean it good and check magnets not loose.)
Now you see stator. about 10:00 you see wires going in case. There may be a retainer holding wires to case with two small screws. If so remove if not yours has newer assembly.
If stator burnt and no good cut wires on inside and pull plug out od case.
Otherwise you need to work wires and plug back into case. use caution not to damage the plug seal molded to the wires.
Now for tork head screws hold stator to case, remove and lift stator off.
HD says use new tork screws. I have cleaned and reused with blue loctite. You do whatever you want. tork screws are 30 -40 INCH pounds.
Thoroughly clean case and all parts. Assembly is the reverse.

BE VERY CAREFULL SLIDING ROTOR BACK ON, MUST GO STRAIGHT AND FLAT.
BE SURE THE THIN SPACER WASHER GOES IN RIGHT PLACE.

Clean crankshaft, clutch shaft and both nuts. use a couple drops of red loctite on nuts.
slide compensator, clutch hub and chain on as one assembly.
retorque nuts comp = 150-165 ftlb and clutch 70-80 ftlb.
install chain tensioner and reset tension.
reassemble clutch if you took it apart during teardown.
put case cover on pay attention to long and short bolts.
Install running boards. install and kickstand bolts and heel shifter.
refill case with fluid. you will need to readjust clutch assembly
plug stator back in hook up battery and you should be ready to fire up.
stator is self aligning when nuted down, but I always check it by turning engine over by hand with comp nut and socket, making sure it does

 

I just pm'ed an answer to you after you sent me a pm.
Post above 35 amp should read 38 amp

Most carbeurated twin cams were the low output 38 amp
Fuel injected was 45amp

Page 6-20 ( I think) 01 service manual shows the compensator sprocket
assembly and gives socket size and torque value. And the note the spacer is only used on the 38 amp
And on 8-3 or 8-4 (don't have book again) buddy just picked it up again 5 minute ago.
shows the charging system parts.
It also makes note of the spacer.
Now if yours is fuel injected then the stator number is correct (I wrote number in my book a few years ago).
If yours is 38 amp carbeurated than I would say NO you can not leave it out.

45 amp rotor is thicker so spacer not needed.
the spacer puts the compensator sprocket in alignment with the clutch sprocket.
So if your bike is carbeurated you need to call the dealer and confirm the stator is same
for 38 and 45 amp systems.
Can you upgrade I don't see why not, but you need all the correct parts.
You need to talk to a dealer tech or HD to confirm though.
45 may be to high for the rest of your system. but I have seen some aftermarket
up grades for other models.
I was between rock and hard spot once and tried a different aftermarket stator on my 98 roadglide. It was too tight would not slide on hub properly.
So was down till tuesday when the dealer opened (I was out of my area).
I did 6 stators on the 98 roadglide in two years.

Hope this helps

 

Very good write up.

One question, on my '06 RK FLHRI, how do I know what it came with amps/watts from factory?

I've added several electrical items and don't want to run the battery dry of charge in the future.

Thanks,
Gary

 

Buy the service manual is best way.
Other wise check with the dealer.
I heard HD went to a 60 amp system, but have not confirmed.
But being fuel injected it would be at least 45 amp.
New batteries are sealed with only a fume vent.

 

When I purchased an '00' Ultra once, all were EFI, the owner told me that he upgraded the alternator to the higher '01' amp alternator as if there was a change between those two years. That's all I know.

 

Have the SM and looked all over, will continue looking, have not found out yet. Also have parts illistration book, not there either, that I can tell. Proabably in the electronics manual that I don't have (yet)! I'll keep looking. Thanks
Gary

 

Unless the dealer has a way of knowing for sure I can't tell you for sure.
I heard that in 05 or 06 HD went to a 60 amp alternator, but haven't confirmed it yet.
But if they did, it would be in the service manual under electrical.
If they give a choice as in older years they will list a low output and high and amps for each.
The carbs in 01 used low output 38 amp
the fuelies in 01 used high output 45 amp.

I don't remember what year model you have but if you have the book in the electrical
section it will tell you the different amp stators used that year.
pm me and let me know what book says.
I'm developing a general list of this info for future reference.

 

According to this link https://www.hdforums.com/upfiles/231...8DC9FFF20E.jpg50 AMP on 06 touring bikes

 

Thanks for the link. I had heard they went up in amps. Thought it was 60 but as I said I hadn't confirmed it.
does HD post this info on their site under specs?