OK, as some of you know, I have had hell ever since doing my 103" upgrade on my 09 Ultra. Without question, the dumbest thing I ever did to my scooter, that was running absolutely perfect prior. Anyway, now that we all know how dumb I am, I need to ask a question about checking the timing on my scooter. I have read that if the cams were installed even one notch off, it can cause the timing to be screwed up considerably. In have tried three auto tunes with my Power Vision with Auto tune Pro with no decent results, the bike runs as bad as ever. I asked the HD shop to check the cams to be sure they were in correctly, which they said they did (I was out of town) I am starting to think the problem is with the install since the tuning is doing nothing to help. I read somewhere that you can check each cylinder with a pressure gauge and they should be virtually the same if timing is correct, and off considerably if the timing is off. Is this true? I have already spent a ridiculous amount of money screwing up a perfectly good scooter, so before I go and spend more doing this, I was hoping someone here can confirm this is accurate? I have the 103" with 255 cams, what should the pressure be? How much difference will indicate a problem? Thanks all.... I am so disappointed I did this.

 

You might want to try a different base map in your Power Vision, see if that helps.

 

Thanks for the suggestion Stro1965, I have tried three HD canned maps and a Map from Fuel Moto, and the auto tunes, ..... all preform the same.

 

So exactly what is the matter with the bike. Is it not accelerating smoothly? Does it cough, kick or sputter?
That is a pretty straight forward upgrade. Not too many things to go wrong. Did you use a kit? Tell us more as to what the problem is.

 

I have a 2009 Ultra. I brought it in to my local HD to have the compensator upgraded to the SE compensator. While in , they suggested saving some labor and doing the HD 103" with 255 cams. Also have a SE AC and 4" Rinehart slip on's. I agreed. Since the upgrade it runs terrible. They tried 3 downloads and could not get it running decent. They told me it needed tuning and wanted to sell me the HD SERT. I told them I did not realize I would have to buy a tuner to get my scooter running, and they said normally you don't. HD puts out countless of these builds with no tuner. Anyway, I took the bike, mostly cause I don't trust them, and bought a Power Vision with Auto Tune Pro. It does no good, so I am becoming convinced they screwed something up with the install. What it does is when I take off, it hesitates and wants to die out of 1st gear. If I keep the RPM's up I can get going. Once going, in any gear, if I roll on the throttle, it hesitates and backfires like crazy. If I ease it up through the gears, I can keep going, but if given any throttle, it is toast with hesitation and backfiring until I release the throttle.

 

You would have to try pretty hard to get the cams off a tooth, what tuning problems are you having?

 

Uncle Chester, Read above post with problems I am having.

I read on another thread that HD had some 255 CAMS that had timing lines off. Anyone else ever hear of this? I am just trying to figure out if it is the timing, CAMS or something else. This is frustrating spending a bunch of money and ending up with a bike that runs terrible.

 

Have your VE's been erratic or are they starting gradually get dialed in? What kinda temps has your PV been logging for the engine? Hadn't heard of the timing mark issues the 255 cams had, I'll see if I can find some pics of my 555's, they are indexed so that they are almost impossible to install wrong.

 

I don't really have a good pick of it but if you look at the flat on the crank shaft that let's the crank shaft sprocket only go on one way. A little harder to see is the small flat on the exhaust cam, same thing, the cam sprocket can only go on one way.


Here it is with the cams installed, again it's hard to see but both sprockets have dots on them as well to verify that everything aligned.


Another thing that comes to mind is a possible intake leak.

 

Never did compression on 255, but I think it should be around 200#'s on each cylinder. It would have to be off by more than 50#'s to cause the problem you are having. If you are off a tooth it will be more than that. Do compression test with both plugs out and the throttle wide open. I would make sure the injectors aren't crossed, don't know if that is possible. May check your fuel pressure. I think it is 50#s. Probably need assistance from a indy or friend with the tools and gauges. Check the spark plugs. If fouled looking too rich which I doubt. If white which probably is too lean. Lean is what your symptoms are. Also turn the plugs with the gap pointed down and make sure the porcelin isn't loose on the electrode. Can happen and will run like crap. Probably first thing is to check for air leak in the intake system like the vacuum cap missing on the injector/throttle body. You can use a propane torch with a hose attached and unlite and just put it around the intake area with the motor running. If you get a speed increase anywhere but the intake itself that would be a problem. Lots of vacuum caps get blown off by engine backfires. It could also be poor adjusted valves, but that will show up on the compression test. You can check the valve timing without pulling down. Loosen the pushrod tubes and slide them to the top out of the lifter bore. With plugs removed turn the engine over until exact top dead center on piston. You can turn the engine with the back wheel and trans in gear, don't use starter. A drinking straw or small dowel can be put in the cylinder to tell when at tdc. You want the piston on tdc split overlap stroke which is when both valves on that cylinder are open the same amount. If both are fully closed it is on compression stroke and motor needs to be turned 360°. Once on tdc the intake lifter should be about .015" higher than the exhaust since the 255's are advanced 5.5°. I assume you aren't running the stock O2's since you have the broadbands in with autotune. If you had the tank off make sure the connection to the fuel disconnect is in place right. Lot of these suggestions aren't likely the problem. I would hook the power vision up and put it on the 6 gauge screen and have it where I could see it. Put the front and rear VE on two labels, Spark advance front and rear on two and the rpm and throttle position on the other. If you have trouble setting the gauges up the manual is fair on this. I had to change the color of the gauge to blue cause default is white for both. the color palette on the right of each gauge does this and have to do each one. If you want a map that will work for sure send me a PM with your email and I will send you one guaranteed not to be lean. I suspect that is the problem anyway. If it is idling ok not likely any major problem with the cams. Fuel pressure is another thing. HD stage 2 or 3 down load should have worked also. Good luck as this can take a while if it isn't simple.