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Fuel pressure regulator or tune/thoughts

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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #1  
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Default Fuel pressure regulator or tune/thoughts

Bike is an 09 EGC with 103 with Se255 cam upgrade. SERT(Super Tuner) at time of upgrade the exhaust was stock headpipe with CAT removed. CVO mufflers with Fulsac 2 inch cores. The bike was dyno tuned with this set up.
While in Sturgis this year I had some issues with codes and later it was determined to be the corroded pins at the throttle actuator. I also purchased a true dual exhaust. Freedom Performance.
At warm or hot idol after sitting at a light. I go to take off and it acts like the engine has loaded up. It has died on me a couple times at take off so I have adjusted to it and try to keep a little higher rpm 12 to 1500 while at light. If I don't do this it will spit and sputter for a couple seconds after take off.
The other thing I notice, in the morning at cold start as it warms up and idol drops to normal range it has an intermittent spit or pop.
Originally I thought it just needed to be re-tuned for the exhaust, but now I am beginning to wonder if it may be sucking air from the fuel line or intake seals.
Thoughts??
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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the fuel pressure/volume can be checked...I just went through this on my 2001 GMC Sierra- but the problem there shows up more at high speeds, as the fuel delivery can't keep up with demand.( and mine would be fine until I ran up over 3500 rpms, then it's throw codes for lean operation on both cylinder banks)


So I might suggest that is not likely your problem at low rpms.

You could certainly check for vacuum/ intake leaks, some use carb cleaner or wd40.
water works pretty good too, and less messy.
check cold first, then again after it warms up.

check for exhaust leaks with a cigarette, move the lit end along the pipes and look for the smoke to be disturbed.

if all the physical stuff is shown to be good, then it's time to examine what the "tuner" is doing



mike
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 09:43 PM
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It may be the fuel pressure regulator or filter. I had similar problems with my 04 EG. The pressure regulator came loose from the plastic housing it sits in. Not sure if it was just the o-ring because I replace everything except fuel pump and now runs perfect. What's your milage? It might be time to replace filter and fuel supply lines inside the tank anyway. And sometimes the supply lines in the tank get cracks too.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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Sorry all that info I gave, I have 54000 miles on the bike. The fuel filter was replaced at the last service almost 5k ago.
I am scheduled for my next service and a check on these issues in about 2 weeks
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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my brothers springer was acting like yours and he ended up having a cracked fuel regulator
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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http://www.dragspecialties.com/produ...&submit=Search

This is what the regulator sits in and is known for cracking.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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Are headers bolted good and tight into the heads? Did you use new gaskets for a tight seal? If you had the pins replaced in the throttle control actuator connector plug are you sure they were replaced in the position they are supposed to be in? Don't think that's likely the problem but...
 
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Old Aug 31, 2013 | 09:32 PM
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When this happened in Sturgis I took it back to the installer. They removed everything and re installed while the main guy watched over them along with me. Everything was checked and re-checked.
However this afternoon while polishing the bike I discovered the left muffler has slipped backward about an inch. I was able to tell because there were witness marks on the chrome. Loosened clamp and re-set. Clamp did appear tight and I couldn't move the muffler until I loosened it. I checked for leak at this joint but none noted.
While cleaning the bike I did find another issue of concern. Long story short, my air filter element was drenched in oil. It says right on it that it is a Dry Element. Last service was done 4k miles ago. I know there is a blow by issue but geesh how does it breathe when the air filter is drenched? Cleaned it with K&N solvent. Let it dry and put it back on, Filter felt half a pound lighter after I cleaned it
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 12:00 AM
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I don't think the oil in the filter is a big problem. Lot's of bikes get that way. But have you ever cleaned out your induction module? Like taking it off and using MAP sensor cleaner? Things can get pretty gunky in there. Take off the filter. Open the throttle and look in there with a light and dental mirror. But if you clean it take it off first. You don't want cleaner going in the cylinder.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2013 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SOCALHD
When this happened in Sturgis I took it back to the installer. They removed everything and re installed while the main guy watched over them along with me. Everything was checked and re-checked.
However this afternoon while polishing the bike I discovered the left muffler has slipped backward about an inch. I was able to tell because there were witness marks on the chrome. Loosened clamp and re-set. Clamp did appear tight and I couldn't move the muffler until I loosened it. I checked for leak at this joint but none noted.
While cleaning the bike I did find another issue of concern. Long story short, my air filter element was drenched in oil. It says right on it that it is a Dry Element. Last service was done 4k miles ago. I know there is a blow by issue but geesh how does it breathe when the air filter is drenched? Cleaned it with K&N solvent. Let it dry and put it back on, Filter felt half a pound lighter after I cleaned it
This will cause a rich condition which could show your loading up symptoms.
If 1/2 the filter was restricted that would be enough to do it.
Did you notice a difference after cleaning? If so, keep clean and drop your crank case oil level enough not to burp back up the air cleaner.
 
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