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Hi all,
My bike suddenly have issue(s).
The engine is start but it is very rough, and idle is less than 1k RPM. If I try to rev than it very slowly increases the RPM to about 2000 RPM, and it appears like there is no "power" at all.
I have noticed that I didn't hear the automatic pressure release sound when I turn on the ignition switch.
I did the code retrieve and the only error code is B1155 (neutral switch shorts to ground). I don't have a breakout box and I have no knowledge about this part, so I cannot do anything.
I still think the engine problem is not related to the neutral switch shortage, as the N light is still on, and gear shifting is fine.
My first suspicion is fuel problem, but I need some suggestion of where I should to start to diagnose.
Eventually, I will have to build or buy a breakout box.
Any help will be appreciated.
Nick
Sounds like you're on the right track with your initial thoughts. If you fuel pump is failing it will definitely give you low power. Any backfire or popping from the air cleaner?
I had a person ask me what was wrong with his bike that was doing essentially the same thing. It would start, but not run real good and when he turned the throttle it ran rough and would not accelerate and would die. Turned out it was a simple fix: it was nearly out of gas.
Might verify you have enough fuel in the tank, in case your fuel gauge may not be working correctly. I was not able to clearly understand if you were hearing the fuel pump on turning on the ignition, or not? If you aren't hearing the pump run for several seconds then you for sure have a problem within the pump or tank. If it continues to run and not shut off before starting then you may have a cracked fuel hose in the tank.
Thanks everyone1 I am getting too old to know that I have responded in another thread.
Anyway, my 2010 bike is not under warranty anymore.
I think I have to "open" everything to see whether any pinched wire somewhere.
At this time, I am very much narrowing down to the neutral switch, as I've cleared the error code (B1155), and I get it back again later.
I search the neutral switch on line, but I've not found a place to order one yet. It seems like no one sell them.
Anyway, my first thing to do tomorrow is looking for pinched wire, then find a place to order the part if needed.
Thanks again
I'll let you know how it goes.
Befor doing anything else, clean and tighten your battery cable ends. There is a lot of bad gas on the market, loaded with water. Install about 5 oz's of Isopropyl fuel dryer, Heat in the red bottle. Fill tank and run it for awhile to circulate. Buy your fuel from a different vender this time. Ley us know if this helps.
Befor doing anything else, clean and tighten your battery cable ends. There is a lot of bad gas on the market, loaded with water. Install about 5 oz's of Isopropyl fuel dryer, Heat in the red bottle. Fill tank and run it for awhile to circulate. Buy your fuel from a different vender this time. Ley us know if this helps.
Thanks much for all the tips.
I know that I always have the power, as the headlight and everything else are lit up. The engine is alway started right away, but I cannot crank it up. so, the error code is probably the starting point for me. I guess replacing a new neutral switch is not an expensive try. I wish I have a breakout box.
I'll let you know
My 2010 ultra did the same thing. Come to find out the fuel pump housing cracked causing loss of cjel pressure. Dealer replaced under extended warranty and it's as good as new.
My 2010 ultra did the same thing. Come to find out the fuel pump housing cracked causing loss of cjel pressure. Dealer replaced under extended warranty and it's as good as new.
Thanks so much for info.
I'll check that part and replace the filter the same time.
Could be a bad HFSM. A short in left handle bar switch housing. Or a short to ground somewhere on the black/red wire in the main wiring harness between connectors 30B and 24B. That's the wire that goes from your left switch housing to your HFSM.
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