2012 Limited Clutch Slipping Issue?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,776
Likes: 2,252
From: wet coast BC
On two occasions I have gone to the dealer for warranty without clutch slippage and left with 5th slippage. re adjusted myself. I wonder if their method in some way is intended to do this after reading here.
clutch cable can have 1/8" slack and the clutch can still slip. starting position when screwed in on the ramp is the key. others have noted that the threads on pushrod adjuster can have a burr and give a false bottom feel. also the ramp may not be fully released even though the cable is slackened. best way is to allow enough cable so when you pull the lever you can feel it pull the ramp while turning in to the bottom. My way is to loosen the cable so the lever is slack to between 1/2 ad 3/4 pull but the rest to bar still moves the ramp.
clutch cable can have 1/8" slack and the clutch can still slip. starting position when screwed in on the ramp is the key. others have noted that the threads on pushrod adjuster can have a burr and give a false bottom feel. also the ramp may not be fully released even though the cable is slackened. best way is to allow enough cable so when you pull the lever you can feel it pull the ramp while turning in to the bottom. My way is to loosen the cable so the lever is slack to between 1/2 ad 3/4 pull but the rest to bar still moves the ramp.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 54
From: SE Wisconsin
My take is, that is counter productive to introduce super slippery oil to a clutch take works on friction.
I'd switch oil before doing anything mechanical.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,776
Likes: 2,252
From: wet coast BC
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
OK there is 1 more adjustment that we haven't talked about. You have a pushrod going from the right side of the tranny to the left side clutch hub. In the center of the clutch hub you have an adjustable set screw and nut. That needs to be adjusted per the manual too. It is possible to have slack in the clutch cable and the clutch center rod adjuster holding the clutch pack open and needs adjusted periodically as the clutch plates get thinner with wear.
1 - Loosen you clutch cable again to be sure it is loose and does not affect your next adjustment.
2 - Remove your derby cover from the primary
3 - loosen the center nut and if you find the set screw is tight you just found your problem.
4 - loosen the set screw and gently tighten to the point you have removed all slack in the pushrod.
5 - back the set screw out and tighten the lock nut. I believe it is 1/2 -3/4 turn back out but check your manual
6 - Now replace your derby cover and adjuste your clutch cable again.
Bottom line is you must have no pressure on the pushrod holding the clutch pack open and you must have no pressure on the cable to avoid riding the throwout bearing and or holding the clutch pack open.
1 - Loosen you clutch cable again to be sure it is loose and does not affect your next adjustment.
2 - Remove your derby cover from the primary
3 - loosen the center nut and if you find the set screw is tight you just found your problem.
4 - loosen the set screw and gently tighten to the point you have removed all slack in the pushrod.
5 - back the set screw out and tighten the lock nut. I believe it is 1/2 -3/4 turn back out but check your manual
6 - Now replace your derby cover and adjuste your clutch cable again.
Bottom line is you must have no pressure on the pushrod holding the clutch pack open and you must have no pressure on the cable to avoid riding the throwout bearing and or holding the clutch pack open.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 867
Likes: 17
From: Brentwood, TN
My 2011 with a Stage 1 and 23,000 miles seems to not grab as well as I'd like sometimes when going between gears fairly aggressive. Seems OK once it locks up. I was running Mobil 1 20w-50 in the primary for a while but have gone back to HD Formula and it does seem a bit better. When it finally wears out I'll probably try to update it with one of the clutch kits that has an extra plate and might go so far as an AIM but I doubt the Stage 1 requires that. Thought about the heavier spring but was concerned about clutch pull when I get stuck in stop and go traffic. That might be the source of my clutch issue too with constant friction zone over use. Got stuck the other day for 30 minutes moving one car length at a time.
Last edited by TNCarters; Oct 1, 2013 at 04:07 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 959
Likes: 5
From: Oswego, IL
My primary oil smelled burnt with just a stage one. I think mine might have been slipping but I didn't know it. Put in the Heavy Duty spring and it was a world of difference. I would do the spring and see how it is.....
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 826
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix
It's not the fluid. Sounds like an adjustment issue.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Simi Valley, CA
The gap (1/16 to 1/8 inch) that HD specifies between the the cable ferrule and the bracket is in my opinion a very roundabout way of specifying this adjustment. The result you are looking for is freeplay in the lever. I don't know why HD just doesn't specify it as such.
I always adjust my cable by lever freeplay, paying zero attention to the ferrule/bracket gap specified in the manual.
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