So is the 13 Limited primary tensioner adjustable?

 

Undoubtedly the add on pieces (or new cover) would direct oil to that location but there is no way for it work its way in. All of the faces which meet adjoining parts are smooth with no oil flow channels of any sort. The latest revision comp has something like 6 or more small holes drilled into the hub which allow the oil dripping from the little plastic piece to work it s way into the hub area. The torx head bolt was necessary to keep those little holes uncovered right next to the bolt head as they slant outward from the bolt head so centrifugal force will sling the dripped oil outward into the hub sliding surfaces.

I have gone from "blind faith" in the recommended adhesive to wondering if the difference in expansion and contraction rates of the plastic and aluminum from heating and cooling will cause an adhesive failure somewhere down the road. I'd hate to be forced to add the cost of a new primary cover to the price of the newest redesigned compensator. So far, my home modified SE compensator is doing fine with 45,000 miles on it.

 

Would the 2014 Primary cover fit on older bikes ?

At what point to you throw in the towel and just take your chances ?

 

what mods did you do to your comp.? better oiling? more springs?

 

Both sides of the actual sprocket hub have flat surfaces which rub against the adjacent pieces. On each face (front and back) at the base of each spoke, I ground in small slots opening possible flow from the outside of the hub to the inside using a Dremmel grinding wheel. Then I made light spiral grooves on the inside face of the bore connecting a front groove to the next adjacent groove on the back side of the sprocket. That seems to get enough oil into the hub area. On the sprocket spokes where they rub against the cam I also made short slots extending from the hub side the rub face 1/2 way into the rub space. This seems to let centrifugal force sling oil into but not through the spoke/cam interface area. All of this was done free hand with a Dremmel, so none of this is precision machining. So far, no bangs, clanks, rattles or grinding. I'll continue to run it until some bad noises start as described by many others who have had SE comps changed already. There used to be lots of pictures of this on the net, if I can find any reference, I'll add that so you can see what I'm trying to describe.

Fuzzy but good enough: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/prima...l-grooves.html

Back in 09 there were pics all over the place on this but now this is all I could find. There were so many pics on net I never took any of my own.

 

The link below is for a kit that GMR offers that will help get oil to the compensator. Seems like a good viable option and I have read some good reviews from people who have installed the unit then inspected the compensator thousands of miles later. I am thinking of installing this kit because I don't like the idea of needle bearings in the primary.

http://www.gmrperformance.com/compensaver/

 

just had my compensator off, and what a sh-tty design. H.D. should take the guy who came up with this out back and head shoot him. no need for this crap. i got a friend with a hot running S&S 124 using the old style comp. for 90"s,problem free for many years.

 

I went ***** deep in the new compensator and the glue on fin. I'm using an evolutions industries clutch and running ATF type F fluid. I'm willing to test the sum itch out and see how long it lasts.

I just replaced every component in the inner primary with exception of the output and main shaft due to the stock basket blowing up and taking out the chrome HD inner primary when it wedged between the comp chain and housing popping it like a teenage pimple.