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Final Drive Sprocket Nut

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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 11:44 PM
  #1  
2black1s's Avatar
2black1s
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Default Final Drive Sprocket Nut

Holy ****! Have you ever had to remove one of these?

I developed an oil leak last week on my 2011 Limited and had to replace the main drive gear transmission seal. To get to the seal the final drive sprocket has to come off.

I borrowed a Jim's tool (special tool for this specific purpose) from a local indy so I had all the right stuff but after several attempts with my 1/2" drive impact gun and a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a three foot cheater there was no way that nut was coming off. I even heated it with an oxy/acetylene torch to no avail, although I was being cautious because I didn't want to overheat and damage the mainshaft seal.

To finally get the nut removed I took a small die grinder with an 1/8" carbide bit and ground a slot into the nut - as close to all the way through as I could get without risking damage to the main drive gear threads - and then split the nut with an air chisel. Once split I was able to remove it using the Jim's tool.

This was my first experience removing the final drive sprocket and my question to those of you that have done this before is this - Have you ever had one of those nuts that just wouldn't come off, short of such an extreme measure as I took?

At any rate, I got the seal replaced, took a 50 mile test ride and all is well.
 
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Last edited by 2black1s; Nov 5, 2013 at 12:07 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 12:54 AM
  #2  
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
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DO NOT use air impact tools on this, the clutch hub nut or the comp sprocket.

the forces transferred internally can cause further damage.

while a bear, I have managed to do all three above with breaker bar on older model bikes ( my 09 is fine- knock on wood)


mike
 
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 11:57 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
DO NOT use air impact tools on this, the clutch hub nut or the comp sprocket.

the forces transferred internally can cause further damage.

while a bear, I have managed to do all three above with breaker bar on older model bikes ( my 09 is fine- knock on wood)


mike
Mike, I appreciate your concern but your DO NOT USE an impact wrench warning is not necessarily valid as long as you use the impact wrench appropriately. By that I mean you have to be able to react the force/shock. In this case I was able to react the force/shock by wedging a block between the sprocket teeth and the swingarm. The spocket is splined to the gear that the nut mates to so by isolating the sprocket from movement you have eliminated the potential of inducing unecessary force/shock to the transmission internals. The same principle can be applied to the compensator nut/bolt, or the clutch hub nut.

I do agree that you wouldn't want to apply an impact wrench to any of these without reacting the force/shock somehow.

Like in so many cases, the tool used is not the problem. It's the who and how the tool is being used, or used by.
 

Last edited by 2black1s; Nov 6, 2013 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #4  
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ke5rbd
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From: Monroe, Louisiana
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Local dealership mechanic says about 1 in 4 will come off. Have to use the die grinder and chisel.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 05:32 AM
  #5  
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timvan
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From: Acworth, Ga
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Did you soak it with some pb blaster overnight? Id think that would help?
 
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