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I put 12" HD mini apes on mine and just had to pull a couple of the plastic holders loose to make everything free enough to fit. I did reroute the clutch cable by taking it loos from the lever and then feeding it closer to the fairing instead of over the radio which gave me about 2" more slack. Brake was not an issue. The TBW wire was long enough I think I could have gone 14"s without issue. I have heard the SE kit has a better connector though than the stock green one so I would say you can do it without it but if if it makes you feel more confident about the end result.......
Nothing against you but I refuse to get into a debate again about the TBW harness but I will tell you this just in case you don't already know...you will lose the use of your fairing mirrors with 10" bars.
If you'd like you could PM me and I'll walk you through it step by step. I've installed several of these bars.
Last edited by SBates08; Nov 20, 2013 at 04:44 PM.
I put 12" HD mini apes on mine and just had to pull a couple of the plastic holders loose to make everything free enough to fit. I did reroute the clutch cable by taking it loos from the lever and then feeding it closer to the fairing instead of over the radio which gave me about 2" more slack. Brake was not an issue. The TBW wire was long enough I think I could have gone 14"s without issue. I have heard the SE kit has a better connector though than the stock green one so I would say you can do it without it but if if it makes you feel more confident about the end result.......
xantasm, are you saying you've put a 12 inch "ape" on ur bike without changing clutch and brake lines? assume you had to extend the control wires right? did you run all of them thru the bar? considering apes and high enough to keep the fairing mirrors work - which I think is 12+ inch...
im doing internal wiring and ive read enough that I should have more than enough length with wires and brakes. read were a lot of guys went with a +4 clutch cable.....thoughts/suggestions on that. I and the tbw ?? was to see if the SE tbw was better/more reliable after the install than putting the stocker back together. and yes I know about mirrors with the 10's. ive never been a fan of the taller bars so its a huge leep for me to be doing 10's. trying to relive a little shoulder discomfort on 300 mile days.
im doing internal wiring and ive read enough that I should have more than enough length with wires and brakes. read were a lot of guys went with a +4 clutch cable.....thoughts/suggestions on that. I and the tbw ?? was to see if the SE tbw was better/more reliable after the install than putting the stocker back together. and yes I know about mirrors with the 10's. ive never been a fan of the taller bars so its a huge leep for me to be doing 10's. trying to relive a little shoulder discomfort on 300 mile days.
All cables and wiring are long enough. The clutch will be a little tight but can be moved around enough to give you ample slack. Without extending your wires they won't go back to their original mounting place on the fairing brace but that's really not a big deal. Just cut some of the wire ties and relieve enough of the main harness so they'll connect down under the radio. You want to have enough slack so that your wires aren't tight where they exit at the bottom of the bars because that will cause shorting issues later down the road. As far as the TBW goes you have 2 options. You can cut the green plug out and solder and heat shrink (green plug will pull apart when trying to pull wires) or you can buy the SE TBW. Also if you are not running your control wires internally, these bars will need to be cut where the wires exit at the perches because they aren't dimpled like stock bars. And if this is the route your choosing you can leave the TBW as is with green plug. Hope this helps. I think you will be tickled with these bars.
All cables and wiring are long enough. The clutch will be a little tight but can be moved around enough to give you ample slack. Without extending your wires they won't go back to their original mounting place on the fairing brace but that's really not a big deal. Just cut some of the wire ties and relieve enough of the main harness so they'll connect down under the radio. You want to have enough slack so that your wires aren't tight where they exit at the bottom of the bars because that will cause shorting issues later down the road. As far as the TBW goes you have 2 options. You can cut the green plug out and solder and heat shrink (green plug will pull apart when trying to pull wires) or you can buy the SE TBW. Also if you are not running your control wires internally, these bars will need to be cut where the wires exit at the perches because they aren't dimpled like stock bars. And if this is the route your choosing you can leave the TBW as is with green plug. Hope this helps. I think you will be tickled with these bars.
thanks for the help. I am planning on internal wiring and will probably get the SE tbw kit for less hassle as im not real good with soldering.
thanks for the help. I am planning on internal wiring and will probably get the SE tbw kit for less hassle as im not real good with soldering.
One other tip for you on these bars...the opening where the harness exits always seems small to me on these bars. I use an air cut off tool with a drill bit type grinding bit and open the hole up at least 1/4" on each end and 1/8" top and bottom then take a small file and clean it up.
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