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I have a 2003 road king classic and I am debating on replacing the rear tire myself or having the dealer do it. It seems I can save alot of money by buying the tire online and taking the wheel off the bike and taking it somewhere to be mounted and balanced, but Im not sure what is involved with taking it off the bike and putting it back on. Has anyone done this , or should I let the dealer do it.
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Frankly, and with all due respect - if you have to ask this question then, no - let someone QUALIFIED do the job! I'm not tryin' to be unkind here, but let's face it - if you don't even have a manual to help guide you, chances are that you also don't have the necessary tools or mechanical background to undertake something like this.
Now, if you can find a "customer-friendly" shop that'll let you go back with the bike and learn how it's done, then you CAN decide if it's something you'll be comfortable undertaking next time!
Removing the rear tire on my RK goes down as one of the poopiest jobs there is - it ranks right up there with cleaning the catbox. Lots of little things can and usually do go wrong - from having your bike fall forward off the lift to gouging the rotor while trying to get the wheel mounted and doing the caliper (after the belt) at the same time. It's not a job for the faint of heart - but, it can be done. Just be aware that you may end up cursing yourself and HD for such an archaic setup.
ive done it and just have to be patient. may want to bleed ore rplace brake fluid/pads while down there. use caliper greese/brake cleaner too. just to be on safe side(ive seen it go wrong too).also would back away from actually changing the tire off rim and balancing. a shop can do that part cheap/fast.ive done that to,but would draw the line there imo next time. There are some little steps that the dealer/shop can actually skip therefore it is actually good imo to bond with bike and do it right yourself!! yah you can save a few pounds of cash$$ One time this shop got pissed at me cause they knew they lost a lot of business when I opened my trunk and gave them the wheels and new tires. mount and balanceing was around 50$ prices for tires online are sweet too.hu. just do a little research and pay attention to those little details good luck
Not much to it. You need a good jack, a torque wrench, a belt tension gauge, a 36 mm socket, and definately a service manual.
You can save a lot of money, but I am with Texasredneck on this. If you have to ask.....You need to get the service manual, study it, learn what is involved, and then decide for yourself if you are up to the job. If you try to do it, and botch it, you are sure not going tosave any money.
I was over at my friends shop the other night when he was changing the rear tire on a bagger.
took about 10 minutes to get it off with aftermarket pipes.
He said on my bike, the left muffler has to come off to get the axle to slide out.
So he got the bike on the lift and strapped down, removed the bags, put a scissors jack under the bike and cranked it up high so he could swing the wrench to loosen the nut on the right side.
Broke the nut free and removed it, then lowered the bike till the tire just touched the table then he slid the axle out the left side.. picked the bike back up with the scissors jack, slid the tire forward waching the caliper on the right side and sliding the belt off the pulley on the left. Once the belt and caliper were out of the way the tire slides out.
While you have it apart replace the brake pads... 1/4 inch 12 point socket is needed to do that
I didn' stick around to watch him put it together so you are on your own.
Did mine last weekend. About 30 minutes to take both off. Easy if you follow the manual. You do need a jack and a 36 mm socket.
1. remove both saddlebags
2.remove both mufflers
3.remove eclip from groove at end of axel.
4. remove cone nut and adjuster cam from axel
5.using soft mallet, tap axel toward left side. catch spacers, pull axel free
6. pull wheel to release brake disk from caliper
7. remove caliper from wheel and let hang
8. move wheel forward and slip belt of sprocket
9 remove wheel
This is from the 05 UC manual. Goes back the same except wheel alignment and belt tension. On the 05, with the adjuster cam, the alignment is sooo easy. See manual for details. also torque the cone nut to 95-110 ft lbs.
If you don't feel safe enough to go ahead and jump into the job, dont do it. Remember, your wheels are what contact the road. The simplest of errors can cost you your life.
I believe the underlying question washow much work was involved in changing the rear tire.Taking the tire off is not too bad butreplacing the tire itself, well that's another story.
I attempted to do this when I got a nail in my tire and wanted to replace the tube. I picked up some tire irons but after huffing and puffing a while, I gave up.
That rubber is pretty onforgiving when trying to get it over the rim.
I took the tire to a local Indy and had the tube replaced for 40 bux (not including the tube)
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