Clutch help
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 4
From: Here
Soooo, you have the adjuster collapsed all the way with the maximum amount of slack in the cable and you can't squeeze the lever to the grip without actuating the clutch? That doesn't sound like a problem to me. In fact, I remember my new cable being the same way. Just adjust the cable to where there is the recommended play at the perch (1/8th inch or whatever) and go. The cable will stretch and you will have to re-adjust a couple times.
Maybe I'm reading your problem backwards...
Maybe I'm reading your problem backwards...
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 359
Likes: 1
From: Rockwall, TX
Soooo, you have the adjuster collapsed all the way with the maximum amount of slack in the cable and you can't squeeze the lever to the grip without actuating the clutch? That doesn't sound like a problem to me. In fact, I remember my new cable being the same way. Just adjust the cable to where there is the recommended play at the perch (1/8th inch or whatever) and go. The cable will stretch and you will have to re-adjust a couple times.
Maybe I'm reading your problem backwards...
Maybe I'm reading your problem backwards...
Thanks for the help.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
If the clutch basket in the primary was good before the cable change it should still be good. You have 2 different adjustments for 2 different mechanisms. If you have tried to adjsut the clutch basket be sure you have removed all tension on the clutch cable adjuster before adjusting the clutch in the primary. Seperate the 2 systems you are adjusting and start at the clutch basket moving to the clutch cabel. After the clutch pushrod has been adjusted to guarantee there is no pressure on the pushrod with the clutch pack compressed, then you adjust the cable. The cable adjuster needed to be screwed together to shorten the sheath and expose more cable to route through the perch. After connecting to the lever and routing throught the perch the adjuster needs to be lengthened. Ast stated above the correct adjustment will leave a 1/8 gap between the edge of the perch and thestep in the lever. This freeplay will gaurantee the clutch is not being held open by the cable which wouldf cause the clutch to slip. Anything that holds pressure on the clutch pack will allow it to slip. 1st adjust the clutch basket to spec then the cable to spec. In the end you can freely pull the lever in to create the 1/8 gap. If you run out of the adjuster before you get the gap to spec the sheath is possibly not seated into the perch or the clutch cover pockets.
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,757
Likes: 4
From: Northern Illinois
Your adjustments are off. Put slack back in the cable, do your adjustment in the clutch pack, then adjust slack out of cable. If that doesn't take care of it then your problem is gonna be in the tranny cover. If you disassembled the ball and ramp to install new clutch cable, you may have reassembled it wrong.
2010 Limited with some stuff
2010 Limited with some stuff
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 944
Likes: 12
From: New York
SBates is a correct length of the cable has no affect its the actual length of the pull..l I went through this when I did my bars and confirm it with Barnett Cables loosen everything up and make adjustments from the clutch pack then the cable if this doesn't work your may be using the wrong cable or its installed wrong ... Good Luck Joe
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: East Alton, IL
Sorry I had a brain fart.. I was thinking of my metric bikes. It's been snowing and cold so long I almost forgot what the bikes look like!
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ronyd
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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Mar 19, 2008 10:39 AM
