I’m installing the Custom Cycle Engineering (CCE) upper fork bracket, Race Tech single rate springs, and fabrik8r’s tweaked Ricor Intiminators in my 09 SG. Because the RT springs are considerably shorter than the OEM springs, installing RT springs requires use of a spacer to account for the reduced spring length. Plus, the CCE modification requires longer fork tubes (supplied by CCE), so even with OEM springs a spacer is required to account for the greater fork tube length. This post concerns the spacer length. The spacers are made from PVC pipe.

Apologies to some readers, as this post assumes familiarity with some suspension concepts. Also, I’m mighty new to this stuff so I may misstate things. If there are errors, please correct me.

Spacer length also determines suspension sag. In this initial install I’m following a method recommended by RT and fabrik8r when installing only (shorter) RT springs and Intiminators: the spacer length should equal the difference in spring lengths. (Use of this method assumes sag will be fine tuned in a second round after putting the bike together and making the 3 standard sag measurements to determine a refined spacer length.) The OEM spring is 473 mm (18.6”) and the RT spring is 338 mm (13.3”), so the total spacer length using this procedure is 135mm (5.3”).

(Because steel washers are placed on either end of the PVC - between the spring and the PVC spacer and the fork cap bolt and the PVC – the “total spacer length” includes washers. Each RT-supplied washer is 2 mm thick.)

Now for the CCE piece of this puzzle. The magic of CCE’s upper fork bracket is that it has pinch bolts that firmly hold the top of the fork tubes – unlike pre-2014, HD touring bikes. The CCE design requires longer fork tubes that fit inside the CCE upper bracket. For a given spring, the longer fork tubes require a PVC spacer.

I believe the first key measurement is the interior depth of the fork tube, measured from the top of the fork tube where the fork cap bolt rests to the bottom of the tube where the rebound spring rests. My OEM fork tube measures 487 mm (19.17”) and the CCE fork tube measures 557 mm (21.92”), so the CCE tubes are 70 mm (2.75”) longer.

Finally – unless I’m missing something I hope one of you will correct – the OEM and CCE-supplied fork cap bolts must be compared, because the spring (or spacer atop the spring) seats against the bottom of the fork cap bolt. If the bolts have different depths the difference must be factored into the combined spacer length. The critical measurement is the distance between the flange on the fork cap bolt that seats against the fork tube and the bottom of the fork cap bolt that seats against the spring. Mine are the same depth (29 mm), so I do not need to account for a difference.

So, I believe my initial total spacer length (including washers) is 135mm (5.3”) plus 70 mm (2.75”) or 205 mm (8.07”). Please comment.

Please see update at post 10 -- I abandoned the foregoing.

 

This is one reason I have hesitated on this mod.i thought the cce tubes would be 2 " longer and I would add approx 2" and just have to fine tune. And w what about oil amount ?

 

Ok, I really read all that. I think (hope I get it) that you are basically asking what is the difference between the setup that you figured out and what additional length would be needed for the CCE. I would suggest calling Rick at CCE. He has been very accommodating helping out with the different suspension mods.

I have the CCE in my 09 Ultra with progressive monotubes. I am quite pleased with that but you are even going the extra mile with your suspension. The CCE triple really tightens up the steering, you will love it.

 

Subscribed.
I'm contemplating the same move. Already have the Intiminators installed.
Your logic and calculations certainly seem correct, but let's hear from CCE.
Good luck.

 

I have not done this mod but have considered how it would be done...So for what its worth...
if I remember correctly the CCE fork tubes are 2" longer over stock...
Now be fore warned that this isn't a one time installation and your done...your weight, weight of the springs will make a difference so be prepared to take apart and make adjustments...
On my R/T it seems that the spacer was flush with the top of my fork tube with all the guts in stacked like they should be...
So when you have your stock tubes apart try this...
take all the guts out except for the dampener rod
drop in intimidator
add spring
add both washers
add spacer
mark spacer flush with the tube fully extended
Now this is where it is unclear as to which fork cap CCE supplied with your set up
if its the long one which adds to the difference of the additional length just put everything together in new CCE tubes and sit on it and measure
Another tip would be to pull up R/T and read how they suggest setting up sag and use the same method they suggest
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/F...20and%20Actual
download there preload work sheet and follow there recomendations...you should then be very close and can tweak from there

NOTE: This is a timely process so to do it right EXPECT to remove the forks numerous times till you get your sag correct
best of luck
paul

 

Another trainee here! I have RT springs and fabrik8r's tuned Intiminators in my stock forks at present, plus a CCE kit on the shelf, awaiting installation. I'm not sure the RT instructions are a great deal of help, to be frank. For a new installation the only things we are interested in are overall fork length, wheel off ground, and static sag, rider mounted with wheels on the ground. Anything else is a distraction IMHO. That does assume we have used RT's guide and selected a suitable spring rate!

fabrik8r's post on his tuned Intiminators gives us guidance on appropriate spacer length. I offered the thought at one time that if we each select the most suitable spring rate for our riding weight, the spacer for stock forks will be the same length for all of us. Add the extra length of the longer CCE tubes and we should indeed be fine, which will ensure the correct spring pre-load is applied.

Which is a long-winded way of agreeing with you jefla that your arithmetic seems OK!

 

Some replies:

bklybob asked about the oil level: Fortunately, this one should be easy (after talking w/ Rick at CCE). Set the oil level per the HD specification for the OEM shocks. For my 09, the spec given in the manual is 125 mm (4.92") from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil in the tube. This step requires a bit of a process, and oil level is measure w/ spring and spacer removed. See the manual.

Difference in fork tube lengths: My original post said the internal depth of the CCE tubes is 70 mm greater than the OEM tubes. I have just confirmed that the external lengths show the same difference. My CCE tubes are 70 mm (2.75") longer than the OEM tubes.

Difference in fork cap bolt depth: The CCE FCB is 29 mm deep, just like the OEM.

As TexasBow said, this is a time consuming process that almost certainly will require at least one round of typical sag measurement-taking, fork removal, and spacer length adjustment. ... Actually, there is comfort in fabrik8r's observation that "It gets quicker every time you take it apart LOL." https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...better-44.html

I will get confirmation on all of this from Rick/CCE (possibly after I put it back together later today). CCE is very helpful. I did not already ask about spacer length because I needed to figure out what I was doing so I knew what to ask. The work leading to my original post and replies from members leaves me thinking I'm on the right track.

 

I for one really want to hear how all this works out!

 

Use the "Traxxion method", in their spring install instructions, will get you very close for spacer length. basically you take a bunch of measurements off the tube, cap, and spring and do some simple math. verify your total stroke while its apart. PM if you need assistance.

 

Update

In short, WardsPartsWerks’s reference to the “Traxxion method” is what we are looking for. It’s easy and was recently sanctioned by Rick at CCE. Here’s my description of the method.

(1) Assemble the slider and new fork tube (i.e., install bushings, seals, damper rod, rebound spring and 6 mm screw).

(2) Insert damper valve, then spring. (I am using fabrik8r’s tweaked Ricor Intiminator and RaceTech springs.)

(3) Fully extend the fork assembly, then measure from top of the spring to top of the fork tube. (This is Traxxion 4A.) The top of the fork tube is the place where the fork cap bolt (FCB) seats. My measurement is 169 mm.

(4) Measure the distance between the shoulder and bottom of the FCB. (This is Traxxion 4B.) The bottom of the FCB is the surface that is against the washer that will be placed between the FCB and the PVC spacer. Mine = 29 mm.

(5) Determine your starting preload. Rick/CCE called this “compression,” and recommended 1 3/8 to 1 ˝” (35-39 mm). Preload is the distance the spring is compressed upon final assembly. I selected 39 mm.

(6) Determine the combined thickness of washers that go above and below the PVC spacer. RaceTech requires (and provides) spacers between spring and PVC spacer and PVC spacer and the FCB. Mine = 2 x 2 mm = 4 mm.

(7) PVC spacer length is determined as follows: 4A – 4B + preload – washers. Mine is 169 – 29 + 39 – 4 = 175 mm (7”).

Some comments:
• I expect to have to take this thing apart and fine tune spacer length. That fact helped me comfortably select a larger preload value. (Fabrik8r says it’s easier the second time.)
• When selecting preload/compression, get guidance from your spring manufacturer and remember CCE’s range is 35-39 mm. Also, as total weight of the loaded bike goes up preload should be increased. I picked 39 mm because I have a heavy amp and speakers, added auxiliary lights, and weigh 210.
• On final assembly, you’ll need a gorilla to help install the FCB or you’ll need to devise a spring compression device that allows you to compress the spring by pushing the FCB into the fork tube and then turn the FCB. I used a deep 35 mm socket and my bodybuilder nephew. For next time, I’m going to build a lever device like the 2x4 contraption created by a fellow member.
• Determine total travel while the fork is partially assembled at step 1. This will be needed when the whole thing is together and you are determining desired sag. This value is fully extended length – un-extended length. Mine is 109 mm (4.3”).
• Check out sponsor Motorcycle Metal’s mighty helpful videos on youtube (Harley Davidson HydroGlide~Present Fork Rebuild). There are 2.
• As per M-Metal, clean everything, including the inside of the new CCE fork tubes. I was surprised to see how much black residue I got out of the new tubes. I used mineral spirits and brake cleaner, pushing lint-free cotton through the various tubes.
• I replaced all bushings, seals, bolts and crush washers.
• Get a good device for setting fork oil level, and have plenty of oil on hand.
• Note that this method produced a much shorter spacer length than I got by comparing the lengths of old and new springs and fork tubes. Ignore that discussion.

My shocks are assembled, but my bike is not back together so I cannot report ride impressions. Based on comments from members in various threads, these mods will be a huge improvement -- so I don’t need to buy a Rushmore and start over with the motor, audio, and shiny stuff.

I hope got this right, and that this thread helps. I’ve agonized over this installation but it really was not that hard once I got into it. For sure, buy at least an HD manual.